An Old Fashioned "Dive"

Yesterday while I was wandering around, taking pictures with my cell phone, I crossed from Nápoles into the less fashionable, neighboring district of Escandón.  I was walking along a street that was new to me when I came upon a sight that could have come straight out of 19th century Mexico City.  There on the corner was a "pulquería"... a tavern which sells "pulque".

"Pulque" is an alcoholic beverage made from the sap of the "maguey" plant, a type of agave similar to the plant that is used to make tequila and mezcal.  "Pulque" is fermented rather than distilled, so its alcoholic content is similar to that of beer.

The beverage dates back to pre-Hispanic times.  It was considered the nectar of the gods, and its consumption was limited to religious ceremonies and festivals.  After the Spanish conquest, the drinking of "pulque" became widespread, and "pulquerías" sprang up throughout central Mexico.  By the late 19th century there were more than 1000 of these taverns in Mexico City.  Although people of all social strata might be seen in these taverns, the consumption of "pulque" was associated with the lower classes, and the "pulquerías" were viewed by "decent people" as dives of drunkenness, gambling, prostitution and crime.

In the 20th century, with the rise in the popularity of beer, "pulque" production and consumption declined, and today there are only a few of these taverns left in Mexico City.  In recent years, "pulque" has experienced a bit of a revival among young hipsters who are seeking to return to their Mexican roots.

The "pulquerías" of yore were often decorated with gaudy paintings and murals inside and out.  This place is no exception.

The mural depicts the production of "pulque" and it sacred pre-Hispanic origins.

Mayahuel, the Aztec goddess of "pulque" is shown emerging from the center of a maguey plant.  Cupped in her hands is the "aguamiel" (honey water) which collects in the center of the plant when its flower stalk is cut.  In the old days, workers would harvest the juice by sucking it into a large, elongated gourd.

The "aguamiel" is then poured into wooden barrels and from there placed into leather-lined vats where it is fermented.  "Pulque" can be drunk unflavored, but it is more palatable if a syrup made from fruits or nuts is added.  I once had a drink of flavored "pulque" and it was not too bad.

I did not venture into this iniquitous dive of drunkenness, but I afterwards I read some reviews of the place, and it apparently is quite respectable and was highly recommended.