A Photographic Journey to Chiapas

 Along the main entrance to Chapultepec Park there is usually a photographic exhibit.  Last week I visited the park, and the walkway was lined with photographs from the tourism department of the Mexican state of Chiapas.  Chiapas, on the border with Guatemala, is Mexico's poorest state, but it is also one of its most beautiful and culturally fascinating states.  I traveled to Chiapas many years ago, and it was interesting to see photographs of places that I had visited.

Chiapas was the location of numerous cities of the Mayan civilization, and I have been to a number of its archaeological sites.

Toniná is a spectacular site whose temples and pyramids are built on terraces climbing a hillside.  The city flourished between the 6th and 9th centuries.

Deep in the Lacandón rainforest along the border with Guatemala is Bonampák.  This small archaeological site is famous for the mural paintings found in one of its temples.  The guide in this picture is dressed in the traditional attire of the Lacondón Maya.

Also in the Lacandón forest are the ruins of Yaxchilán, located on the banks of the Usumacinta River which forms the border between Mexico and Guatemala.  The only way to reach this remote archaeological site is by boat.

One of the most beautiful of all the Mayan ruins is Palenque.  A UNESCO World Heritage Site, it contains some of the finest architecture and carvings from the Mayan world.

Chiapas has a large indigenous population, the descendants of the people who built the great Mayan cities.  Mayan dialects are still widely spoken here.

Beautiful textiles are woven by the Mayan women.

In villages such as San Juan Chamula, worship in the church is a unique blend of ancient Mayan ritual with a thin veneer of Catholicism.

The diverse geography of Chiapas provides natural wonders.

The Sumidero Canyon was carved by the Grijalva River.  The canyon walls rise as high as 3,300 feet.

"Agua Azul" is a series of cascades along the Xanil River.

The photographic display brought back memories of a fascinating journey.

Climbing Pyramids

Climbing the pyramids of Mexico's archaeological sites is an experience that has become prohibited at more and more locations.

In 2006 the famous Mayan Pyramid of Kukulkán at Chichén Itzá was closed to climbing.

Supposedly the closure came after a woman fell to her death while descending the pyramid, a story which I have never been able to confirm.  With the enormous number of visitors coming to the archaeological site, it was necessary to close the pyramid to preserve the structure.  I visited Chichén Itzá three times.  The first two times I was able to ascend to the top and even climb a staircase within the pyramid that was part of an earlier temple.  On my third trip there everything was closed to climbing.

The Pyramid of the Magician, at the Mayan site of Uxmal was also closed to climbers.

The staircase of this pyramid is especially steep and scary... yet I climbed it twice, the second time with a group of my students.  Cracks were discovered on the structure following Hurricane Gilbert in 1988, and archaeologists have worked to stabilize the pyramid.

A third Mayan pyramid closed to climbing was the Temple of the Inscriptions at Palenque.

When I first visited Palenque you were not only allowed to climb the pyramid, but you could descend a staircase within it that led to the burial chamber of King Pakal... a fascinating experience.  But on my second trip there, the pyramid was off limits.

Teotihuacan, about 30 miles north of Mexico City, is one of the largest archaeological sites in Mexico.  I have lost track of how many times I have climbed the massive Pyramid of the Sun.

You could also climb the Pyramid of the Moon, although you could only go up to the first level since the staircase was not completely restored.

All that changed in 2020 during the pandemic.  The dense crowds of people ascending and descending the steps were deemed a health hazard.  Even after the pandemic, the pyramids remained closed to insure their preservation.

The reason why I am bringing this up is because of an article I read the other day.  As of May 19th (two days ago), the National Institute of Archaeology and History reopened the Pyramid of the Moon to climbing up to the first level.  I'm not sure that the reopening is for the best of reasons.  The Institute said that the decision was made as part of an effort to increase tourism in the Teotihuacan Valley.  Repairs have been made to the steps and a handrail has been put in.

There was no mention of reopening the Pyramid of the Sun.  Visitors will not be able to make the arduous climb and have the spectacular view of the entire archaeological site.  However, they will once again have the impressive panorama from the Pyramid of the Moon looking down the Avenue of the Dead.

Seven Archaeological Wonders

Since ancient times people have been making lists.  Ancient Greek writers compiled a list of wonders of their known world... seven of them because they considered the number seven to represent perfection.

I have always been fascinated by vanished civilizations, so I thought I would make a list of my seven favorite archaeological sites.  Just as the Greeks did not have knowledge of the entire world, I have not traveled to many astounding places. I have not seen the Coliseum of Rome, the Parthenon of Athens, or the Great Pyramids of Egypt, just to name a few.  Obviously, since I have traveled so many times to Mexico, sites in that country are overrepresented. 

There are also some places I have visited which many travelers would probably put on their list, but which I have not included.  It is certainly amazing how the ancient inhabitants of Britain transported huge stones to create Stonehenge.  Yet that site did not "wow" me.  (The fact that visitors are no longer allowed to get close to the ruins did not help.)  The Mayan city of Chichén Itzá made it to the new list of wonders announced in 2007.  As impressive as it is, the hordes of day-trippers who flock there from Cancun and the army of annoying souvenir vendors have spoiled it for me.

So here is my very subjective list...   

7.  The Roman Aqueduct in Segovia, Spain

 

 

Every time I visit Segovia I catch my breath when I first glimpse this aqueduct built by the Romans 2000 years ago. It is nearly 100 feet high, and was built entirely without mortar.  The fact that it has survived the centuries and continued to provide water to the city until the 19th century is amazing.

 

 

 

6.  The Mayan Ruins of Uxmal, Mexico

 

 



With its pyramids, palaces, and intricately designed stone mosaic decorations, Uxmal is one of the most impressive Mayan cities.  When I take friends to the Yucatán, I take them here rather than to Chichén Itzá.   No crowds, no vendors, and you can still climb most of the ruins.


5.  Teotihuacán, Mexico

More than fifteen hundred years ago, Teotihuacán was one of the largest cities in the entire world.  And then it was mysteriously abandoned.  It's sheer size is astounding.  The Pyramid of the Sun is the third largest pyramid in the world.  Although it receives large numbers of visitors (it's located about 30 miles from Mexico City), the site's vastness easily absorbs the crowds.  The two pyramids can be climbed, offering impressive views.


4.  Palenque, Mexico

Located in the tropical rainforest of the Mexican state of Chiapas, Palenque is one of the most beautiful examples of classic Mayan art and architecture.  Although you are no longer permitted to climb the Pyramid of the Inscriptions and descend into the burial chamber of King Pakal, it remains a stunning and evocative site.


3.  Cantona, Mexico

Not many people have heard of this impressive site which is located about three hours from Mexico City near the border of the states of Puebla and Veracruz.  More than 1000 years ago it was a major city along the trade route from the Gulf coast to the Mexican highlands.  It is the largest archaeological site in Mexico.  The beautiful scenery all around you, and the fact that you have the place almost to yourself, make this one of my favorites.


2.  Monte Albán, Mexico

Two thousand years ago the Zapotec tribe leveled the top of a mountain to construct their huge ceremonial center.  It is an amazing construction feat. All around you are marvelous views of the mountains and valleys of Oaxaca.


1. Machu Picchu, Peru

 

 

There is absolutely no doubt that my favorite archaeological site is the Incan ruins of Machu Picchu in the Andes Mountains of Peru.  It was constructed 1000 feet above the valley floor on a saddle between two mountain peaks.  The astonishing Incan stonework combined with the spectacular mountain scenery combine to make this the most incredible place that I have ever visited!

Mayan Treasures

Mexico City's National Museum of Anthropology is one of the great museums of the world.  Nowhere else in the world will you see such a huge collection of artifacts from Mexico's many pre-Hispanic civilizations.  I have visited the museum countless times.  It is so enormous that trying to see it all in one day is not only impossible, but exhausting.  On my last several visits I have concentrated on just relatively small portions.  Last February I spent time in the Mayan Hall.  Here is a small sample of the Mayan treasures.

  
Most of the pre-Colombian civilizations had some form of picture writing, but the Mayas were the only ones to have a full-fledged writing system.  This Mayan stone is covered with  hieroglyphs.

The Mayan hieroglyphs long baffled archaeologists.  In the second half of the twentieth century progress was made in deciphering the Mayan inscriptions, and today around ninety percent of the Mayan glyphs can be read.  I have read descriptions and seen TV documentaries about how the code was broken, and it remains beyond my comprehension.  Apparently the key was when the archaeologists realized that the glyphs represented syllables or were combined to represent several syllables. It was certainly one of the great archaeological achievements of recent times, and it has vastly increased our knowledge of the Mayan culture.

One feature found in the Mayan cities of the Classic Period (AD 250-900) were monuments known as stelae.  These large stone slabs are covered with carvings and inscriptions.  It was originally thought that they were representations of Mayan mythology, but now that the inscriptions can be read, archaeologists know that most of them commemorate important events in the lives of the Mayan kings.  They were art used as propaganda to glorify the kings.

The museum contains numerous examples of Mayan stelae.

On the small island of Jaina, just off the coast of Yucatan, more than 1000 Mayan burial sites have been excavated.  The graves contained large numbers of beautifully crafted ceramic figurines.  It is not known what the purpose of these figurines was, but they provide a window to the appearance, dress and daily life of the Maya.

One of the most important gods of the Maya was Chac, the rain god.  His image appears on many Mayan temples.  This mask of Chac is from a temple in the ruins of Kabah in Yucatan.  Chac is easily recognized by his long nose, similar to an elephant's trunk.

 



This statue is known as a "chac mool"   The "chac mool" is a reclining figure holding a bowl or plate over his belly.  These figures have been found in Toltec and Aztec sites, and several were found at the Mayan ruins of Chichén Itzá.  (The Mayan carvings are much more refined in style than those of the Toltecs and Aztecs.)  The actual name for these carvings is unknown.  In the 1800s a French archaeologist found one of the statues at Chichén Itzá, and erroneously thought that it depicted King Chaacmol.  The name stuck.  It is thought that offerings to the gods... food, flowers, incense, even human hearts.. were placed on the plate that the "chac mool" holds. 

One of the most fascinating sections of the Mayan Hall are the displays relating to the royal tomb of the city of Palenque.  Palenque, which is located in the southeastern state of Chiapas, was one of the most beautiful and powerful cities of the Classic Period.  In 1952, a Mexican archaeologist discovered a tomb deep within the city's principal pyramid.  The tomb contained the remains of King Pakal, and it was the first time that a burial had been discovered within a Mexican pyramid.

From the museum's Mayan Hall, you descend a flight of stairs to see a recreation of Pakal's burial chamber.

A large, intricately carved, stone slab covered the tomb.  Along the sides of the slab are hieroglyphics, which we know, now that Mayan writing has been deciphered, tell the family history of Pakal.  The top of lid portrays Pakal poised between the heavens and the underworld.  With great difficulty the slab was lifted, and beneath were the undisturbed remains of the king.

This stucco sculpture, found in the burial chamber, is thought to be a portrait of Pakal.



The king was buried with a trove of jade jewelry. (To the Mayas, jade was more valuable than gold.)  The jewelry, including the famous jade mask which covered his face, is on display in the museum.



On Christmas Eve of 1985, there was a robbery at the Anthropology Museum.  Two students, obsessed with archaeology, made their way into the museum through the air-conditioning duct, and stole over 100 small but priceless objects... including the jade mask of Pakal.  The objects were all so famous that it was doubted that the robbers would be able to successfully sell them.  It was feared that the treasures were lost forever.  Then, in 1989, police tracked down and arrested one of the thieves in Acapulco, and recovered almost all of the stolen goods.  Pakal's mask was returned to its place of honor... and, hopefully, the museum's security has been beefed up since then.

Palenque

One of the most beautiful archaeological sites in Mexico is the ruins of the Mayan city of Palenque.  Palenque is located in the tropical rainforest of the state of Chiapas. 

 

 

In the 7th century, Palenque was at its height, and was one of the most powerful city states in the Mayan world.  The archaeological site is relatively small, but contains some of the most outstanding architecture and carvings produced by the Mayas.  Furthermore, what the visitor sees is only a fraction of the entire city.  Archaeologists guess that they only explored 10% of the ruins, and that thousands of structures are still covered by jungle.

 

I have visited Palenque twice.  The first time was back in the 1980s on a summer vacation to Mexico.  The second time was in the winter of 2010.  On the first trip, even though it was during the rainy season, the weather was better than on the second trip.  On my second visit, the skies were overcast (as you can see by my photos), although it did not rain.

 

The most impressive building at Palenque is the Temple of the Inscriptions.

 

 

 

 

This pyramid was begun during the reign of Palenque's greatest king, Lord Pakal, and completed by his son.  In 1952, the Mexican archaeologist Alberto Ruz was studying the temple at the top.  He noticed that one of the stones in the floor of the temple had holes in each corner, as if it had been lowered into place.  The stone was removed and revealed a stairway, filled in with rubble, that descended into the heart of the pyramid.  Ruz and his team laboriously cleared the rubble and found that the stairs led to a burial chamber where Lord Pakal was interred.  This was the first time that a burial had been found within a Mexican pyramid.  (Unlike the Egyptian pyramids, the primary purpose of the Mesoamerican pyramids was to elevate their temples closer to the gods.)

 

The king's tomb was covered with an intricately carved slab of stone.  The carving shows a man in a reclining position.  Some crackpots have theorized that it depicts a ancient astronaut at the controls of his spaceship!  However, any archaeologist familiar with Mayan iconography can tell you what the carving represents...

 

(image from the web)

 

The carving depicts Lord Pakal at the moment of his death as he is poised between heaven and the underworld.  Above him is the tree of creation with the celestial bird perched at its top.  Beneath him are the jaws of the underworld.

 

 

When the huge slab was removed, it revealed the sarcophagus containing the bones of Pakal.  The jade jewelry that was buried with him was still in place. (To the Mayas, jade was more precious that gold.)  The jewelry, including Pakal's jade burial mask, are now in the National Museum of Anthropology in Mexico City.

 

 

 

(image from the web)

 







 

When I first visited Palenque, I was able to climb the pyramid and descend into the burial chamber.  Now, however, with increased tourism to the site, visitors are no longer permitted to climb the pyramid.

 

Across from the Temple of the Inscriptions is the Palace.  It was built atop an artificial terrace in the fourth century.  Lord Pakal enlarged and beautified the complex.  The thatched roofs were replaced with stone roofs, and the palace was adorned with stucco ornamentation and bas-relief carvings.

 

 

 

The Palace features a number of open courtyards, and a unique four-story tower, which may have been used as a watchtower or as an astronomical observatory.

 

In some places you can still see traces of the original stucco decorations.

 

 

 

A number of carvings show kings in submissive poses.  These may depict lords of enemy cities who were captured in battle.

 

 

 

In this gallery of the palace you can see the corbelled arches which were used in Mayan architecture.  The Mayas, for all their great skill, never developed the true arch.

 



Beyond the Palace is another group of temples.  This group was built by Lord Pakal's son, K'inich Kan B'alam, to commemorate his accession to the throne.  Climbing of these pyramids is still permitted. The Temple of the Foliated Cross looks as if it is about to be consumed by the rainforest behind it.  (Indeed, if the site were not constantly cleared by workers, the jungle would overtake all of Palenque again.)

 

 

Next to it is the Temple of the Cross.  It contains bas relief carvings depicting Lord K'inich Kan B'alam.



From the top, you can look down at the other smaller temples in the group, including the Temple of the Sun, to the left.

A view of the Temple of Inscriptions and the Palace from the Temple of the Cross.

In 711, Palenque was sacked by the army of the enemy city of Toniná.  The king, the grandson of Lord Pakal, was taken prisoner.  He was hauled off to Toniná, probably to be sacrificed.  Palenque's golden age came to an end.  There was no new construction in the city after the 8th century.  An agricultural population may have continued living there amid the glories of the past for a few generations.  Eventually, the city was completely abandoned.  The forest took over, and the great city remained hidden for centuries.