Weekend Purchases

 I made a couple of purchases while we were on our weekend trip to Jalapa.

At the ruins of Cempoala there was a souvenir shop next to the entrance to the archaeological site.  Give the fact that Cempoala does not get that many visitors, it was a rather large store.  Unfortunately, I would classify most of the merchandise as tourist junk.  There was one piece of pottery, however, that caught my eye.  I thought that it was quite an attractive, understated piece of work.  Unlike the other pieces of pottery there, it was not gaudy, and it was not emblazoned with "CEMPOALA", something which, in my opinion, relegates even an otherwise nice item into kitsch.

There was no price tag on it.  When I asked the storekeeper how much it cost, he told me sixty pesos.  That's only three U.S. dollars!  Of course, I bought it, and it is now sitting in the apartment.

Near our hotel in Jalapa there was a shopping mall with a "Chedraui Selecto".  "Chedraui" is a chain of stores which originated in Jalapa, but which are now found throughout Mexico and even in the southwestern United States.  The stores are a nicer version of Walmart, and the "Selecto" stores are a bit upscale.   On Sunday evening Alejandro and I walked over to the "Chedraui" to look around.  There we found something rarely found outside of Yucatán...  Xtabentún.  

Xtabentún (pronounced Shtah-ben-TOON) is a honey / anis liqueur produced in Mérida, Yucatán.  I am not much of a drinker, but I do like Xtabentún.  On trips to Mérida, I would end each evening sitting in a sidewalk café sipping a glass of the liqueur on the rocks.  Even in Mexico City it is not easy to find.  You certainly won't find it in "Chedraui" or any other supermarket here.  When we saw it in Jalapa, Alejandro and I each bought a bottle to take back. 

The Ruins of Cempoala

On Sunday, Irma's nephew Javier drove us to the archaeological site of Cempoala.  It is about an hour's drive from Jalapa, just a few miles from the gulf coast.

Cempoala was an important city of the Totonac civilization which flourished in the present-day state of Veracruz, and it may have had a population of 30,000 people.  The city was conquered by the Aztecs and required to pay tribute.  When the Spanish conquistador Cortés and his soldiers landed on the gulf coast of Mexico, Cempoala was the first indigenous city that they came to.  The Cempoalans, who hated their Aztec masters, allied themselves with Cortés and helped him in the conquest of Mexico.

The archaeological site is surrounded by a wall with a distinctive design of battlements.  Given the low height of the wall, I suspect that its purpose was not so much to defend the city but rather to enclose its ceremonial and administrative.

The walls and buildings were constructed with river stones from the nearby river.  The structures would have been covered with lime made from crushed shells, giving them a dazzling appearance.

The first building that you come to as your enter the site is a small platform called the Temple of Death.

Along the western side of the ceremonial center is a long platform which was the base of the Temple of the Sun.

It is flanked by two smaller platforms.  To the left is the Temple of Water.  Notice how the present-day town of Cempoala is built right up to the limits of the archaeological zone.  One has to wonder what archaeological remains might have been demolished to make way for the current community.

To the right is the Temple of the Moon.  The rear of that structure has a circular shape.

On the northern side of the site is the largest structure,  the Great Temple.

In front of it is a platform that might have served as an altar or a throne.

Next to the Great Temple is a structure called the Temple of the Chimneys.  The name comes from the pillars on top that have the appearance of chimneys.

This circular enclosure was the scene of gladiatorial battles in which a captive of battle was given the chance to defend himself against local warriors.  

It really wasn't a fair contest since the captive was tied by his waist or ankle to a large stone.  He was given a mock wooden sword with feathers instead of the usual obsidian blades.  He would have to fight against five fully-armed warriors.

Cempoala is not as impressive or large as many other archaeological sites, but it played an important role in the history of Mexico and was worth visiting.  As you can see from the photos, we practically had the place to ourselves.  The downside was that, being at sea level, it was very hot and humid, over 90 degrees Fahrenheit.