teotihuacan

teotihuacan

Tuesday, April 7, 2026

Political Satire

I generally refrain from politicizing this blog, but occasional entries have made it perfectly clear to my long-time readers what I think of the current administration in the United States.  Alejandro sent this to me, and when I got to the end I laughed out loud.  I simply had to post it here on the blog.


 
 

Monday, April 6, 2026

A New Museum

After my visit to the Museum of Popular Cultures in the district of Coyoacán, I walked a few blocks to one of Mexico City's newest museums... "Museo Casa Kahlo" (the Kahlo House Museum), also referred to as the "Red House".






The courtyard of the house

The house where Frida Kahlo and her husband Diego Rivera lived, known as the "Blue House", is nearby, and it has been a major tourist draw for a number of years.  The fact of the matter is that it is a bit of an over-commercialized zoo with long lines of people waiting to enter.  I found the Red House to be a more satisfying experience.  Entrance is timed, but I only had to wait a few minutes before I could enter.  I did not have to contend with large crowds, and I could linger and look at the displays calmly rather than being pushed along by the hordes of tourists.

Frida's father, Guillermo Kahlo, owned two houses in Coyoacán, the "Blue House" and the "Red House".  After Frida and Diego bought the "Blue House", the rest of the Kahlo family moved into the "Red House".  Until a couple of years ago the house was occupied by Kahlo descendants.  The most recent occupant was Frida's grand-niece, Mara Romeo Kahlo.  She and other members of the family, decided to convert the house into a museum.  It opened last September, making it one of the most recent entries on the long list of Mexico City museums.

As in the "Blue House", there is very little in the way of Frida's artwork.  This house presents the story of Frida's family and her relationship with them.  It is a more intimate museum, and I found it more interesting than the "Blue House".  It is filled with family mementos and photographs, and some of the rooms are furnished.

The house was purchased by Guillermo Kahlo, a German-Hungarian photographer who immigrated to Mexico in 1891, became a naturalized Mexican citizen, and changed his name from Wilhelm to the Spanish equivalent, Guillermo.  He established himself as a successful photographer.  His first wife died in childbirth.  He later married Matilde Calderón, and they had four daughters.  Frida was the second youngest of the four.


Guillermo Kahlo




Frida´s family tree



Frida at the age of 4, as photographed by her father



Four generations of the family... Frida´s maternal grandmother, her mother Matilde, her younger sister Cristina, and Cristina's daughter Isolda.
Photographed in 1930 by Guillermo


In addition to being a photographer, Guillermo was also an amateur watercolorist.  It was he who encouraged his daughter to paint when she was bedridden after a accident.


A still life by Guillermo Kahlo



Guillermo's darkroom


The kitchen includes paintings on the wall done by Frida, the only mural painting she ever did.





The dining room



The museum contains a number of Frida's personal items, such as this pre-Hispanic necklace.



For Frida fans who are not able to get tickets to the "Blue House" or who don't want to deal with the crowds, the "Red House" is a good alternative.

Sunday, April 5, 2026

Easter Brunch

This morning we slept in late, and by the time we were ready to go out for breakfast it was nearly 11 AM.  I suggested that we go to a restaurant a few blocks away call "El Bajío", part of a chain specializing in traditional Mexican cuisine.  Alejandro suspected that on Easter morning the place would be jammed and with a long line waiting for a table.  However, we went there and were seated immediately.

As well as hot chocolate, we both started with "tamales canarios".  "Canarios" are different from other tamales in that they are sweet and made from rice flour instead of corn.  They are wrapped in corn husks and steamed.  They were very good.


 Alejandro then had "cecina enchilada".  "Cecina" is thinly sliced beef or pork (in this case pork) which is cooked, salted and dried.  If it is "cecina enchilada", it is coated with chili pepper.  I had a taste, and it was very good.


I ordered the "enfrijoladas".  "Enfrijoladas" are like enchiladas except that they are covered in a black bean sauce.  The filling was "huevos mexicanos", scrambled eggs mixed with peppers, onion and tomato.  They were excellent.


It was an excellent late-morning breakfast that will most likely be our biggest meal of the day.  A delicious and festive breakfast for Easter.

Happy Easter to everyone!

Saturday, April 4, 2026

Creations by Indigenous Women

Here are more pieces in the exhibit at the Museum of Popular Cultures...


A clay figure of a woman by Enedina Sefería Vásquez Cruz.
She comes from the town of Santa María Atzompa, a town in the state of Oaxaca famous for its pottery.



Angelina González is also from Santa María Atzompa.
She did this clay figure of the Virgin of Solitude.



Clay pot in the shape of a cactus by Ester Medina Hernández from the town of Los Reyes Metzontla in the state of Puebla



Clay figure representing the eight regions of the state of Oaxaca by Irma G. Blanco from Santa María Atzompa



Lacquer tray by Francisca Tulais Urbina from Uruapan, Michoacán




Market scene of clay figures by Josefina Aguilar from Ocotlán, Oaxaca



Clay bowl by Lorena Lidia Velasco Villanueva from Santa María Atzompa



Clay figure by Carmen Rivera from Metepec in the State of México



Clay figure of devils by Antonia Martínez Alvarez from San Pedro Ocumicho, Michoacán




A bowl and tray by Angélica Morales Gámez from Tzintzuntzan, Michoacán



An embroidered blanket by Delfina López Patricio and Elvira Dolores Alejo from Tenango, Hidalgo



And finally, a whimsical clay figure representing the Last Supper but with mermaids by Eudelia Quiroz Rafael from San Pedro Ocumicho, Michoacán

 

Friday, April 3, 2026

Creators of Dreams and Realities

The other exhibit which I visited at the Museum of Popular Cultures was called "Creators of Dreams and Realities".


The exhibit features paintings and handicrafts made by indigenous and Afro-Mexican women.

In this post I will start with the paintings.  Some of the paintings are polished works of art, but many are charmingly primitive pieces.

San Juan Chamula is a Mayan town in the state of Chiapas.  I was surprised by the number of paintings that were done by women from that town.


"Trapping a Dream"
by Elena Lunez Lunez
2024


"Ba' tsi ants" (Sorry, I can't translate the title from the Mayan language.)
by Be'chijtik
2024



"Painting the Sun"
by Antel
2002



"The Road that Teaches Us"
by Sofía de Carmen López Gómez
2024



"The Girl wiith a Heart of Gold"
by Yuli Hernández
2024



"My Town"
by Clere
2023



"Twins"
by Sofía de Carmen López Gómez
2024

*******



"The Arrival of St. Gertrudis"
by Lady Herrera
2024



"House"
by Lady Herrera
2024

Herrera is a Mayan artist from the village of Santa Gertrudis in the state of Quintana Roo.


******

These paintings and etchings were done by Yuyé Hernández, an Afro-Mexican artist from the city of Pinotepa Nacional in the state of Oaxaca.



"Shaking Hands"
2014



"Touching"
2016



"Hugs"
2016



"untitled"
2019



"untitled"
2019


Next handicrafts created by indigenous women...



Thursday, April 2, 2026

The Patroness of Mexico

Mexico City has over 150 museums and the number is constantly growing.  Add to that  special exhibits that are on display, and it seems as if every week I am visiting a museum.  Thursdays have almost become my 'museum day".

Last Thursday I went to see two exhibits at the Museum of Popular Cultures, and I also visited a new museum that has only been open for a few months, the Casa Kahlo Museum.  Both of them are located in the southern district of Coyoacán.

One of the exhibits at the Museum of Popular Cultures dealt with representations of the Virgin of Guadalupe, the revered patron saint of Mexico.  The image of the Virgin is to be seen everywhere on Mexico, and here are examples in a variety of medium.


An image of the Virgin made of bakelite



Another made from cut paper



Hand-painted clay tiles



Carved from wood



Etched on a gourd



Modeled in clay


Two portraits done in feathers pasted onto wax







The image in cut tissue paper



A photograph of two dancers at the Basilica with the image of the Virgin on their cloaks


Pilgrims to the Basilica often want their picture taken as a souvenir.  Photographers set their cameras up outside the church.  That is depicted in this piece of folk art.




A photograph of pilgrims being photographed

Next... another exhibit at the Museum of Popular Cultures