The Furniture Expo

Every year there is a furniture exposition, supposedly the largest of its kind in Latin America, at the World Trade Center.

It's always held during Holy Week.  Yes, even on Good Friday and Easter Sunday, the expo is open.

Alejandro and I have been there the last two years.  Last year we bought a new chest of drawers for the guest bedroom.

Admission is free, so even though we didn't plan on buying anything, on the Saturday before Easter, we decided to check it out.

Actually, there was something that I was looking for.  In my house back in Ohio I had two black, rectangular pedestals on which I had a couple of pieces of decorative pottery.  I should have had them shipped down here when I made the move.  They would have looked good with the other pieces of black furniture that are in the living room / dining room.  I did not see anything like them at the previous two expos, and I really didn't expect to see anything similar this year.  I kept my eyes open, but saw nothing.  

However, we did not go home empty-handed.  As we reached the last row of displays before reaching the exit, we saw these door mats which I thought were cute.

I bought one, not to put outside the entrance to the apartment, but inside where we take off our shoes.

Then we saw these stuffed animals which are hand crocheted by women in Mexican prisons.  I bought the duck for the daughter of a friend, and Alejandro bought the tiger for the grandson of one of his cousins.

So, our trip to the furniture expo was not a complete waste of time.

Back to the Anthropology Museum

For the second time in less than a month I played tour guide at the National Museum of Anthropology.  I previously mentioned Charles, the law partner of one of my high school friends, who was visiting Mexico City.  I had told him that I would be happy to give him a tour of some of the highlights of Mexico's greatest museum.  So last week, we spent a few hours there, and I gave him an overview of some of the country's pre-Hispanic civilizations.

Here are a few random photos from our visit...

Charles stands next to a colossal stone head carved by the Olmecs, the oldest civilization of Mexico.

A life-size replica of a Mayan temple in the garden outside of the Mayan Hall

A Mayan "chac mool", a messenger of the gods 

The hearts of sacrificial victims would be placed on the bowl that the figure holds over its belly.

A skull carving from Teotihuacan, the archaeological site north of Mexico City that we had visited just a few days before.

A replica of a mural painting from a palace in Teotihuacan

An enormous column in the shape of a warrior

It held up the roof of a temple in the Toltec capital of Tula.

A stone hoop from a pre-Hispanic ball court

Most of the civilizations played a ball game in which they would try to hurl a rubber ball through the hoop... without using their hands or feet!

A monolithic statue of the Aztec mother goddess, Coatlicue

Her head is composed of two serpent heads and her feet are eagle's talons.

She wears a necklace of human hands, heats and skull, and a skirt of snakes.

A model showing what the ceremonial center of Tenochtitlan, the Aztec capital, looked like.  Behind it is a mural showing the city which was built on an island in the middle of a lake.

Present-day Mexico City stands atop the remains of Tenochtitlan.

More from Teotihuacan

I suppose that there are more than a few tourists who come to the archaeological site of Teotihuacan, see the pyramids, and think that is all there is to see.  In fact there is much more to Teotihuacan than just the pyramids.

After climbing the Pyramid of the Moon, Alejandro, Charles and I continued our tour.  To one side of the plaza in front the Pyramid of the Moon there is a structure which archaeologists named the  Palace of the Quetzalpapálotl (Feathered Butterfly).  It is thought to have been the home of a high ranking priest or dignitary.

The head of a feather serpent, the god Quetzalcoatl, is by the entrance to the palace.

The buildings of Teotihuacan were all painted and decorated with murals.  Amazingly after more than 1500 years there are still traces of paint and decorations.

In the center of the palace there is a courtyard with intricately carved pillars.

Archaeologists at first thought that the carvings represented feathered butterflies, hence the name that they gave to the palace.  However, now they are of the opinion that the carvings represent owls.

The palace was built on top of an older temple, known as the Temple of the Feathered Conches because of the carvings on the walls of the subterranean chamber.  It is thought that the conch shell was a symbol of war since they were blown when armies went into battle.

There are also murals which portray birds, perhaps macaws.

Another feathered serpent head

Another structure is known as the Palace of the Jaguars.  In its courtyard are murals showing jaguars wearing headdresses and blowing conch shells.

At this point, Alejandro, Charles and I left the archaeological site to have lunch at a nearby restaurant.  We still had one section of the ruins to see.  At the far southern end of the site there is a large enclosed plaza named the Citadel and the Temple of the Feathered Serpent.  It was only 4:30 in the afternoon when we got there, but they had already closed the gate.  We thought that was quite strange.  Even though Charles did not get the full tour, he was very impressed with the ruins of Teotihuacan.

A Trip to the Pyramids

Long-time readers of this blog may remember my high school friend Duffy who lives in Puerto Rico and works as a lawyer there.  A month or more ago, Duffy wrote me that his law partner Charles was planning a vacation to Mexico City.  He asked that I offer his partner advice in planning his trip.  Charles and I exchanged numerous emails in which I gave him pointers for his trip.  Alejandro and I offered to take him to the pyramids of Teotihuacan outside of the city while he was here.  So, on the Saturday after his arrival, we met him at his hotel for breakfast and then drove him to the archaeological site.

Teotihuacan was the first great city of the Americas.  It reached its zenith prior to A.D. 500, and probably had a population of over 100,000.  It is a city shrouded in mystery.  We don't know who built it or exactly why it fell in decline.  It had been abandoned for centuries when the Aztecs came into the region.  They saw the impressive ruins and thought that it must have surely been built by the gods.  It was they who gave it the name by which we know it today... Teotihuacan... the place of the gods.

We arrived at the archaeological site, paid for our admission and parking, and parked at the lot closest to its grandest landmark, the Pyramid of the Sun.

The name was given to it by the Aztecs, but we do not know what deity was worshipped atop the structure.  It was probably built around A.D. 200.  It is one of the largest pyramids in the world with a height of 215 feet, and a base measuring 720 by 750 feet.  It has been closed to climbing since the pandemic.  However, Alejandro noticed some workers on the pyramid, and he wondered if they might be getting ready to reopen it to climbers in time for the World Cup.

Stretching the entire length of the site is the Avenue of the Dead.  Again, the name comes from the Aztecs.  They thought that the earth-covered ruins along the street were burial mounds.  We walked along the Avenue of the Dead to the other great structure, the Pyramid of the Moon.

On the wall of a building along the avenue, there are the remains of a painting of an animal, most likely a puma.

The Pyramid of the Moon was built between A.D. 200 and 450 over a pre-existing pyramid.  It is 141 feet high and stands in front of a large ceremonial plaza.

This pyramid was also closed to climbing during the pandemic, but last year the first flight of stairs was once again opened.  From there, you have a superb view looking down the Avenue of the Dead to the Pyramid of the Sun.

It's been a few years since I have done any pyramid climbing, and this old man found the climb a little more difficult, particularly the descent.  However, all three of us made it.

With Charles

Carefully making my way down the steps

More from Teotihuacan in the next post

Political Satire

I generally refrain from politicizing this blog, but occasional entries have made it perfectly clear to my long-time readers what I think of the current administration in the United States.  Alejandro sent this to me, and when I got to the end I laughed out loud.  I simply had to post it here on the blog.

  

A New Museum

After my visit to the Museum of Popular Cultures in the district of Coyoacán, I walked a few blocks to one of Mexico City's newest museums... "Museo Casa Kahlo" (the Kahlo House Museum), also referred to as the "Red House".

The courtyard of the house

The house where Frida Kahlo and her husband Diego Rivera lived, known as the "Blue House", is nearby, and it has been a major tourist draw for a number of years.  The fact of the matter is that it is a bit of an over-commercialized zoo with long lines of people waiting to enter.  I found the Red House to be a more satisfying experience.  Entrance is timed, but I only had to wait a few minutes before I could enter.  I did not have to contend with large crowds, and I could linger and look at the displays calmly rather than being pushed along by the hordes of tourists.

Frida's father, Guillermo Kahlo, owned two houses in Coyoacán, the "Blue House" and the "Red House".  After Frida and Diego bought the "Blue House", the rest of the Kahlo family moved into the "Red House".  Until a couple of years ago the house was occupied by Kahlo descendants.  The most recent occupant was Frida's grand-niece, Mara Romeo Kahlo.  She and other members of the family, decided to convert the house into a museum.  It opened last September, making it one of the most recent entries on the long list of Mexico City museums.

As in the "Blue House", there is very little in the way of Frida's artwork.  This house presents the story of Frida's family and her relationship with them.  It is a more intimate museum, and I found it more interesting than the "Blue House".  It is filled with family mementos and photographs, and some of the rooms are furnished.

The house was purchased by Guillermo Kahlo, a German-Hungarian photographer who immigrated to Mexico in 1891, became a naturalized Mexican citizen, and changed his name from Wilhelm to the Spanish equivalent, Guillermo.  He established himself as a successful photographer.  His first wife died in childbirth.  He later married Matilde Calderón, and they had four daughters.  Frida was the second youngest of the four.

Guillermo Kahlo

Frida´s family tree

Frida at the age of 4, as photographed by her father

Four generations of the family... Frida´s maternal grandmother, her mother Matilde, her younger sister Cristina, and Cristina's daughter Isolda.

Photographed in 1930 by Guillermo

In addition to being a photographer, Guillermo was also an amateur watercolorist.  It was he who encouraged his daughter to paint when she was bedridden after a accident.

A still life by Guillermo Kahlo

Guillermo's darkroom

The kitchen includes paintings on the wall done by Frida, the only mural painting she ever did.

The dining room

The museum contains a number of Frida's personal items, such as this pre-Hispanic necklace.

For Frida fans who are not able to get tickets to the "Blue House" or who don't want to deal with the crowds, the "Red House" is a good alternative.

Easter Brunch

This morning we slept in late, and by the time we were ready to go out for breakfast it was nearly 11 AM.  I suggested that we go to a restaurant a few blocks away call "El Bajío", part of a chain specializing in traditional Mexican cuisine.  Alejandro suspected that on Easter morning the place would be jammed and with a long line waiting for a table.  However, we went there and were seated immediately.

As well as hot chocolate, we both started with "tamales canarios".  "Canarios" are different from other tamales in that they are sweet and made from rice flour instead of corn.  They are wrapped in corn husks and steamed.  They were very good.

 Alejandro then had "cecina enchilada".  "Cecina" is thinly sliced beef or pork (in this case pork) which is cooked, salted and dried.  If it is "cecina enchilada", it is coated with chili pepper.  I had a taste, and it was very good.

I ordered the "enfrijoladas".  "Enfrijoladas" are like enchiladas except that they are covered in a black bean sauce.  The filling was "huevos mexicanos", scrambled eggs mixed with peppers, onion and tomato.  They were excellent.

It was an excellent late-morning breakfast that will most likely be our biggest meal of the day.  A delicious and festive breakfast for Easter.

Happy Easter to everyone!