It's Everywhere!

In case you haven't already noticed, you can hardly go anywhere in Mexico City without being aware that the city is one of the hosts of the World Cup.

Here are some more miscellaneous photos...

These two giant figures of soccer players are on the plaza by the Monument to Motherhood.  One is sponsored by GNP, an insurance company, and the other is sponsored by Uber.

 

At the intersection of Paseo de la Reforma and Insurgentes Avenue there is a light display, although I have not been by here at night to see it lit up.

Dr. Simi, the beloved mascot of the drug store chain, Farmacias Similares, is portrayed on this mural as a "fútbol" hero.

And here is the dear doctor, posing in his soccer jersey.

In the middle of the Glorieta de Insurgentes is this giant inflatable soccer ball which was created by seven prisoners at the Penitentiary Center.  It is decorated with the image of Quetzalcoatl, the feathered serpent god of pre-Hispanic Mexico.

 

Mexico Here

Not far from Paseo de la Reforma, on the plaza in front of the Monument to Motherhood, a large tent-like structure has been erected.  It houses a so-called "immersive experience" called "México Aquí" (Mexico Here).  Over the years there have been several other similar "immersive experiences" located on this site.  The first, which appeared just before the pandemic, was the best of all of them... a "Van Gogh experience" in which images of the artist's paintings were projected all around you.  The other exhibits have paled in comparison.  Nevertheless, I decided to check out "México Aquí" on Wednesday.  Although it was mildly interesting, it was not worth the rather steep admission fee of 490 pesos (about 28 U.S. dollars).  In spite of the large number of visitors to Mexico City for the World Cup, I was the only person at the "experience".

The concept of the show is to experience Mexico City through each of your five senses.  After watching a short video about the city, you enter a room devoted to the sense of touch.  You can touch some volcanic stones.  Then there is a collection of stone sculptures that date from pre-Hispanic times to the present day.  (No, you are not allowed to touch the sculptures.)

At first I thought that these sculptures were replicas, but they are all originals from private collections.

A sculpture from the Zapotec civilization dating from between 600 and 950

A colonial sculpture of a lion from the 17th century

An abstract contemporary sculpture

 

The next room is devoted to the sense of hearing.  There is a recording of the sounds of the city...  the music (the traditional song "Cielito Lindo") played by an organ grinder with all sorts of street noises in the background.

Next was the sense of sight.  First there was a screen on which classic movies from the Golden Age of Mexican Cinema were projected.

It was followed by photographs (some of them vintage) of life in Mexico City.

The next room was the sense of smell.  You were supposed to be able to smell typical scents, such as "copal", the incense which is burned for the Day of the Dead.  But I didn't smell anything!  I think the "smell machine" was not working.

Finally the sense of taste.  Here there was an early machine for mass producing tortillas, and a display of typical kitchen implements such as tortilla presses and a kettle for steaming tamales.

And that was it.  Not really worth the time or money.

Two Victories

Yesterday, I was eager to see the results of two games of the World Cup.

In the afternoon Switzerland played against Canada.  I have nothing against Canada, but I was hoping that Switzerland would win.  As my readers know, some of my ancestors came from Switzerland, and I still have distant cousins that live there.

I was passing through "Reforma 222", a shopping mall along Paseo de la Reforma.  A TV screen had been set up there, and the Swiss - Canadian match was being televised.

It was nearly the end of the first half, and neither team had yet scored a goal.  When I returned to the apartment, I checked the score on the internet.  The game was over.  In spite of the fact that the game was played in Vancouver, Switzerland had defeated the home team by 2 - 1!  Hurray Switzerland!

The big game yesterday evening was between Mexico and Czechia here at the Azteca Stadium.  Mexico had already secured the top position in its group, and, according to what I read, the coach was going to substitute some of the top players to give them a rest before the next game.

About half-way through the game it began to rain heavily here at the apartment,  Mexico City covers a large area, and it can be pouring rain in one spot while there is not a drop in another place.  From what I understand, the game can continue even if it is raining.  However, it there is any lightning, play will be delayed.  After a while, I heard thunder, and I hoped that they would be able to finish the match.  Apparently the weather was cooperative in the southern part of the city where the stadium is located.  I kept checking the score on my cell phone, and the game was continuing.  It concluded at around 9 PM, and it was a decisive victory for Mexico with a score of 3 - 0!  Later, after the rain had stopped, I could hear car horns honking in celebration.

There are twelve groups of four teams competing in this World Cup.  Mexico is in group A, and Switzerland is in group B.  The initial games for A and B are now completed, and, as you can see from this chart, Mexico and Switzerland have dominated their respective groups.

Mexico won all three of their games, and Switzerland had two wins and one draw.  I have no idea how they calculate the final point total for each team, nor do I understand the tournament's complicated elimination process.  But obviously, Mexico and Switzerland will continue to play again.

If Mexico and Switzerland should happen to play each other in a future match it will be a problem for me.  I won't know for whom I should root... my adopted country or my ancestral homeland!  
 

Flag Waving

The excitement is palpable as Mexico City awaits the national team's third game this evening at Azteca Stadium.

At the intersection of Paseo de la Reforma and Insurgentes Avenue, vendors were out in force selling Mexican flags and banners for fans to wave at the game.

   

Jesus, the Soccer Fan

After visiting the Fan Zone on the Zócalo, I wanted to go to the Metropolitan Cathedral to see something that I had read about on the internet.  I went to the far end of the Cathedral by the Altar of the Kings, and sure enough, there it was... a figure of the Baby Jesus dressed in the jersey of the Mexican national team.

Even though I am not a religious person, it seemed a bit sacrilegious to me... but then again, for many Mexicans, soccer is almost a religion.

While in the Cathedral I also wanted to see the Altar of the Kings.  The last time I was in the Cathedral, it was being refurbished and was covered with scaffolding.

The enormous altarpiece is the gem of the Cathedral, and is considered one of the finest examples of the ultra-baroque style known as churrigueresque, a style which was popular in Mexico in the 18th century.  The altarpiece is 82 feet high, and is constructed of ornately carved wood covered with gold gilt.  It was completed in 1737 and dedicated to the King of Spain.  The altar contains twelve statues of canonized kings and queens such as St. Edward the Confessor of England and St. Louis of France.  In the center is a painting of the "Adoration of the Magi Kings".  The altarpiece is truly an impressive work of art. 

At the Fan Zone

Last week I went to the Zócalo to check out the fan zone that had been set up on Mexico City's main plaza.

As I headed down Madero Street toward the Zócalo, I saw feathered serpents (the Aztec god Quetzalcoatl) and axolotls (the salamander-like animals that live in the canals of Xochimilco) decorating the lampposts.

This fan was draped in a Mexican flag and wearing one of those silly hats shaped like a soccer ball.

The Zócalo was surrounded by tall barricades, although there were large TV screens facing outward so that you did not even have to enter the fan zone to watch the game.

You had to walk around to the south side of the Zócalo to enter the fan zone.  There police checked everyone's backpacks, bags and purses.  After passing through security, you entered a festively decorated area that was a hodgepodge of Mexican imagery.

A giant piñata

A skull surrounded by marigolds... symbols of the Day of the Dead celebration

Skeletons dressed as fearsome Aztec warriors

Enormous reproductions of Aztec sculptures that had decorated the Zócalo last year for the 700th anniversary of the founding of Tenochtitlan were brought out of storage.

Coatlicue, the Aztec mother goddess

Tlaltecuhttli, the deity of the earth

Coyolxauhqui, the moon goddess

Entering the central area of the fan zone

On the giant screen, Switzerland was playing against Bosnia Herzegovina.  When I left the fan zone, there was still no score 40 minutes into the first half.  However, when I returned to the apartment, I learned that Switzerland had won 4 to 1.  Hurray for my ancestral home!

 

While I was there, the fan zone was busy, but not extremely crowded.  However, that evening, the Zócalo was jammed... dangerously crowded... with fans who wanted to watch the match between Mexico and South Korea.  Mexico won its second game (1-0), securing its position to continue on in the tournament.

From my apartment I could hear the car horns honking and people shouting "¡Viva México!" when the game was over.  From what I have read, the scene along Paseo de la Reforma was one of chaotic celebration.  The fans (many of whom I am sure were drunk) trampled the flowers planted along the boulevard and jumped on (and damaged) the roofs of the Metrobus stops.

Although I am rooting for the Mexico's team to win the World Cup, I shudder to think of the subsequent chaos if they do!   

The Diminishing Tent City

I wrote earlier that thousands of members of the militant teachers' union CNTE attempted to disrupt the opening of the World Cup in Mexico City by unsuccessfully trying to take over the Zócalo, the main plaza where the "fan zone" was to be located.  After being turned back twice by police, they set up their tent encampment on the streets of the historic center that lead to the plaza.  Last week when I read that many of the protesters had gone home, and that most, but not all, of the streets were open again, I decided to venture to the historic center and see the fan zone.

I got off at the Allende subway station, and found myself at the edge of the remaining tent city.

 Like dogs marking their territory, the protesters had left graffiti on the walls of buildings.

"No to the World Cup of plunder"

I blurred the obscenity, but you get the idea of their opinion of FIFA, the international soccer federation.  Actually, I can't argue with that.  Any organization that would invent a "peace prize" to give to the orange "pendejo" is pretty messed up.

I made it to Madero, the pedestrianized street which cuts through the "Centro Histórico" and leads directly to the Zócalo.

I read an online article from the Mexico City newspaper "La Jornada".  CNTE, which represents a minority of the nation's teachers, is to be censured for more than the disruption and vandalism that they have caused.  Their encampments have had a serious effect on the hundreds of businesses along those streets.  Merchants hoped that with the World Cup they would see an increase in sales.  Instead they have gone day after day with virtually no customers.  One said that it has been as bad as during the pandemic.  Wait staff in restaurants, who depend on tips as a large part of their income, are suffering.  

Now with many of the streets open, store owners and employees are hoping to recoup some of their losses, but those along the streets where the teachers are still encamped are despairing.

One restaurant worker said that he has nothing against teachers, but he sees those with the CNTE in a different light.  "They have no empathy for other workers."