More from Teotihuacan

I suppose that there are more than a few tourists who come to the archaeological site of Teotihuacan, see the pyramids, and think that is all there is to see.  In fact there is much more to Teotihuacan than just the pyramids.

After climbing the Pyramid of the Moon, Alejandro, Charles and I continued our tour.  To one side of the plaza in front the Pyramid of the Moon there is a structure which archaeologists named the  Palace of the Quetzalpapálotl (Feathered Butterfly).  It is thought to have been the home of a high ranking priest or dignitary.

The head of a feather serpent, the god Quetzalcoatl, is by the entrance to the palace.

The buildings of Teotihuacan were all painted and decorated with murals.  Amazingly after more than 1500 years there are still traces of paint and decorations.

In the center of the palace there is a courtyard with intricately carved pillars.

Archaeologists at first thought that the carvings represented feathered butterflies, hence the name that they gave to the palace.  However, now they are of the opinion that the carvings represent owls.

The palace was built on top of an older temple, known as the Temple of the Feathered Conches because of the carvings on the walls of the subterranean chamber.  It is thought that the conch shell was a symbol of war since they were blown when armies went into battle.

There are also murals which portray birds, perhaps macaws.

Another feathered serpent head

Another structure is known as the Palace of the Jaguars.  In its courtyard are murals showing jaguars wearing headdresses and blowing conch shells.

At this point, Alejandro, Charles and I left the archaeological site to have lunch at a nearby restaurant.  We still had one section of the ruins to see.  At the far southern end of the site there is a large enclosed plaza named the Citadel and the Temple of the Feathered Serpent.  It was only 4:30 in the afternoon when we got there, but they had already closed the gate.  We thought that was quite strange.  Even though Charles did not get the full tour, he was very impressed with the ruins of Teotihuacan.

A Trip to the Pyramids

Long-time readers of this blog may remember my high school friend Duffy who lives in Puerto Rico and works as a lawyer there.  A month or more ago, Duffy wrote me that his law partner Charles was planning a vacation to Mexico City.  He asked that I offer his partner advice in planning his trip.  Charles and I exchanged numerous emails in which I gave him pointers for his trip.  Alejandro and I offered to take him to the pyramids of Teotihuacan outside of the city while he was here.  So, on the Saturday after his arrival, we met him at his hotel for breakfast and then drove him to the archaeological site.

Teotihuacan was the first great city of the Americas.  It reached its zenith prior to A.D. 500, and probably had a population of over 100,000.  It is a city shrouded in mystery.  We don't know who built it or exactly why it fell in decline.  It had been abandoned for centuries when the Aztecs came into the region.  They saw the impressive ruins and thought that it must have surely been built by the gods.  It was they who gave it the name by which we know it today... Teotihuacan... the place of the gods.

We arrived at the archaeological site, paid for our admission and parking, and parked at the lot closest to its grandest landmark, the Pyramid of the Sun.

The name was given to it by the Aztecs, but we do not know what deity was worshipped atop the structure.  It was probably built around A.D. 200.  It is one of the largest pyramids in the world with a height of 215 feet, and a base measuring 720 by 750 feet.  It has been closed to climbing since the pandemic.  However, Alejandro noticed some workers on the pyramid, and he wondered if they might be getting ready to reopen it to climbers in time for the World Cup.

Stretching the entire length of the site is the Avenue of the Dead.  Again, the name comes from the Aztecs.  They thought that the earth-covered ruins along the street were burial mounds.  We walked along the Avenue of the Dead to the other great structure, the Pyramid of the Moon.

On the wall of a building along the avenue, there are the remains of a painting of an animal, most likely a puma.

The Pyramid of the Moon was built between A.D. 200 and 450 over a pre-existing pyramid.  It is 141 feet high and stands in front of a large ceremonial plaza.

This pyramid was also closed to climbing during the pandemic, but last year the first flight of stairs was once again opened.  From there, you have a superb view looking down the Avenue of the Dead to the Pyramid of the Sun.

It's been a few years since I have done any pyramid climbing, and this old man found the climb a little more difficult, particularly the descent.  However, all three of us made it.

With Charles

Carefully making my way down the steps

More from Teotihuacan in the next post

Political Satire

I generally refrain from politicizing this blog, but occasional entries have made it perfectly clear to my long-time readers what I think of the current administration in the United States.  Alejandro sent this to me, and when I got to the end I laughed out loud.  I simply had to post it here on the blog.

  

A New Museum

After my visit to the Museum of Popular Cultures in the district of Coyoacán, I walked a few blocks to one of Mexico City's newest museums... "Museo Casa Kahlo" (the Kahlo House Museum), also referred to as the "Red House".

The courtyard of the house

The house where Frida Kahlo and her husband Diego Rivera lived, known as the "Blue House", is nearby, and it has been a major tourist draw for a number of years.  The fact of the matter is that it is a bit of an over-commercialized zoo with long lines of people waiting to enter.  I found the Red House to be a more satisfying experience.  Entrance is timed, but I only had to wait a few minutes before I could enter.  I did not have to contend with large crowds, and I could linger and look at the displays calmly rather than being pushed along by the hordes of tourists.

Frida's father, Guillermo Kahlo, owned two houses in Coyoacán, the "Blue House" and the "Red House".  After Frida and Diego bought the "Blue House", the rest of the Kahlo family moved into the "Red House".  Until a couple of years ago the house was occupied by Kahlo descendants.  The most recent occupant was Frida's grand-niece, Mara Romeo Kahlo.  She and other members of the family, decided to convert the house into a museum.  It opened last September, making it one of the most recent entries on the long list of Mexico City museums.

As in the "Blue House", there is very little in the way of Frida's artwork.  This house presents the story of Frida's family and her relationship with them.  It is a more intimate museum, and I found it more interesting than the "Blue House".  It is filled with family mementos and photographs, and some of the rooms are furnished.

The house was purchased by Guillermo Kahlo, a German-Hungarian photographer who immigrated to Mexico in 1891, became a naturalized Mexican citizen, and changed his name from Wilhelm to the Spanish equivalent, Guillermo.  He established himself as a successful photographer.  His first wife died in childbirth.  He later married Matilde Calderón, and they had four daughters.  Frida was the second youngest of the four.

Guillermo Kahlo

Frida´s family tree

Frida at the age of 4, as photographed by her father

Four generations of the family... Frida´s maternal grandmother, her mother Matilde, her younger sister Cristina, and Cristina's daughter Isolda.

Photographed in 1930 by Guillermo

In addition to being a photographer, Guillermo was also an amateur watercolorist.  It was he who encouraged his daughter to paint when she was bedridden after a accident.

A still life by Guillermo Kahlo

Guillermo's darkroom

The kitchen includes paintings on the wall done by Frida, the only mural painting she ever did.

The dining room

The museum contains a number of Frida's personal items, such as this pre-Hispanic necklace.

For Frida fans who are not able to get tickets to the "Blue House" or who don't want to deal with the crowds, the "Red House" is a good alternative.

Easter Brunch

This morning we slept in late, and by the time we were ready to go out for breakfast it was nearly 11 AM.  I suggested that we go to a restaurant a few blocks away call "El Bajío", part of a chain specializing in traditional Mexican cuisine.  Alejandro suspected that on Easter morning the place would be jammed and with a long line waiting for a table.  However, we went there and were seated immediately.

As well as hot chocolate, we both started with "tamales canarios".  "Canarios" are different from other tamales in that they are sweet and made from rice flour instead of corn.  They are wrapped in corn husks and steamed.  They were very good.

 Alejandro then had "cecina enchilada".  "Cecina" is thinly sliced beef or pork (in this case pork) which is cooked, salted and dried.  If it is "cecina enchilada", it is coated with chili pepper.  I had a taste, and it was very good.

I ordered the "enfrijoladas".  "Enfrijoladas" are like enchiladas except that they are covered in a black bean sauce.  The filling was "huevos mexicanos", scrambled eggs mixed with peppers, onion and tomato.  They were excellent.

It was an excellent late-morning breakfast that will most likely be our biggest meal of the day.  A delicious and festive breakfast for Easter.

Happy Easter to everyone!

Creations by Indigenous Women

Here are more pieces in the exhibit at the Museum of Popular Cultures...

A clay figure of a woman by Enedina Sefería Vásquez Cruz.

She comes from the town of Santa María Atzompa, a town in the state of Oaxaca famous for its pottery.

Angelina González is also from Santa María Atzompa.

She did this clay figure of the Virgin of Solitude.

Clay pot in the shape of a cactus by Ester Medina Hernández from the town of Los Reyes Metzontla in the state of Puebla

Clay figure representing the eight regions of the state of Oaxaca by Irma G. Blanco from Santa María Atzompa

Lacquer tray by Francisca Tulais Urbina from Uruapan, Michoacán

Market scene of clay figures by Josefina Aguilar from Ocotlán, Oaxaca

Clay bowl by Lorena Lidia Velasco Villanueva from Santa María Atzompa

Clay figure by Carmen Rivera from Metepec in the State of México

Clay figure of devils by Antonia Martínez Alvarez from San Pedro Ocumicho, Michoacán

A bowl and tray by Angélica Morales Gámez from Tzintzuntzan, Michoacán

An embroidered blanket by Delfina López Patricio and Elvira Dolores Alejo from Tenango, Hidalgo

And finally, a whimsical clay figure representing the Last Supper but with mermaids by Eudelia Quiroz Rafael from San Pedro Ocumicho, Michoacán