CDMX

CDMX

Tuesday, May 19, 2026

More Pottery

Here are some more photos from the exhibition on Mexican pottery and ceramics that is currently on display at the Palace of Iturbide...



Ceramic fish from Tonalá, Jalisco




Ceramic jar from Guanajuato, 1980



Pottery from Guanajuato decorated with the national emblem of the eagle and the serpent
1995




Salad bowl decorated with monkeys from Michoacán, 2025




Ceramic pieces inspired by nature, 2025




Banana vase from Guadalajara, 2016





Pitchers for "pulque" (a traditional fermented beverage made from an agave plant)




Ceramic piece depicting the legend of the volcanoes, Iztaccíhuatl and Popocatépetl
Made in Tlaquepaque, Jalisco, around 1950





Ceramic piece from Xalapa, Veracruz, 2025




Salad plate from Yucatán, 2025




Platter from San Cristóbal de las Casas, Chiapas, 2025




Jar from the state of Oaxaca, 2025




Ceramic platter from Coatepec, Veracruz, 2010




Platter with traditional landscape from the state of MIchoacán, 1987




Ceramic tiles from Puebla, 18th century




Large ceramic statue of the Virgin from Puebla, 19th century




Large clay figures of women from the state of Oaxaca, 1978

I will probably return to the Palace of Iturbide this week, because, in addition to the pottery exhibit, upstairs they are opening a show dealing with the World Cup.


Monday, May 18, 2026

3000 Years of Pottery and Ceramics

I have written many times about the free expositions held at the Palace of Iturbide in the heart of the city's historic center.  The colonial mansion is the headquarters of the cultural division of Banamex, the Bank of Mexico, and each year they hold several exhibits.  The current show is entitled "Clay and Ceramics in Mexico".  670 pieces of pottery and ceramics, ranging from pre-Hispanic objects to contemporary creations are on display.

 

It is most definitely an impressive show, although I found it rather disorganized.  The curators of the exhibit admit that they did not organize the works by conventional categories such as date or region of origin.  I also found it skewed toward modern pieces and that short shrift was given to some of the country's traditional art forms.  For example, I only saw a few pieces of Oaxaca's famous black pottery.

Here are some of the objects in this exhibition...

Some pre-Hispanic pieces







During the colonial period the trade route from Asia to the Mexican port of Acapulco brought Chinese ceramics whose designs inspired the Talavera ware made in Puebla.





Art nouveau platters from the 1920s






English-inspired ceramic dogs from the 1980s




A 1960s tea set by Anfora, a company which is still a major producer of dinnerware.




Dinnerware by Anfora decorated with images of Mexico City landmarks



1940s vase with a pre-Hispanic design




1940s jar decorated with an Aztec eagle



Examples of dinnerware made in the 1960s in Tlaquepaque and Tonalá, a town in the state of Jalisco famous for their pottery.






A platter from Oaxaca decorated with fish




1950s coffee set from Oaxaca with pre-Hispanic decoration




1970s dinnerware from Tlaquepaque, Jalisco




Dinnerware from Tonalá featuring the Olympic rings in honor of the 1968 Games in Mexico City.





Lamp from the 1970s with a ceramic base from Tonalá




More from this exhibition in the next post...


Sunday, May 17, 2026

More Art Deco

Last week, inspired by a magazine article, I wrote a post about examples of art deco architecture in the historic center of Mexico City.  I didn't photograph all the buildings listed in the article, so a few days ago I returned to finish off the list.

On Victoria Street, a street lined with scores of lighting stores, the former headquarters of "Teléfonos de México" stands out.




The art deco building was built in 1931, and the architects were Fernando and Miguel Cervantes. (Brothers?)


Among the decorative features are carvings representing stylized telephone receivers.


(I suppose that there are some people in the younger generations who don't even know what  handheld telephone receivers looks like.)

The building is still a Telmex store (the name the telephone company took when it was privatized in 1990).


I mentioned in the earlier post that one variation of art deco is called "streamline moderne".  Its lines are influenced by ocean liners.  Another example is the Normandie Building on Balderas Avenue.  It was constructed in 1939.  Although is has been much altered over the decades, its curved shape and monumental lettering indicate its art deco origin.





Today the building houses offices and a vocational school, and on the ground floor there is a Little Caesar's Pizza.


A short walk from there, on Morelos Avenue, is the YWCA Building.




"Asociación Cristiana Feminina"

The building was constructed between 1923 and 1933.



Just behind the art deco structure is a boxy, nondescript building which also belongs to the YWCA.  I assume that the two buildings connect because the door to the original building is closed.  If it were not for the open upper windows, I would have thought that the art deco building was abandoned.


The relief carvings at the ground level are all covered with graffiti.




There is a plaque that says that the building has was restored in 2020, but obviously there has been no maintenance.  The condition of this architectural gem is a disgrace, and it speaks very poorly for the organization.

Fortunately the upper floor carvings are free of vandalism.






A few blocks away on Independencia Avenue is the Metropolitan Theatre.


It opened in 1943 as a movie theater.  Its facade was inspired by Radio City Music Hall in New York City.  Today it is a major venue for live musical performances.  You may remember that Alejandro and I attended "Swan Lake" here a couple months ago.

Finally, on the same street as the Metropolitan is this art deco gem about which I have written frequently.


The building was constructed in 1928 as Mexico City's central fire station.  Since 2006 it has housed the Museum of Popular Art, one of my favorite museums in the city.