Climbing Pyramids

Climbing the pyramids of Mexico's archaeological sites is an experience that has become prohibited at more and more locations.

In 2006 the famous Mayan Pyramid of Kukulkán at Chichén Itzá was closed to climbing.

Supposedly the closure came after a woman fell to her death while descending the pyramid, a story which I have never been able to confirm.  With the enormous number of visitors coming to the archaeological site, it was necessary to close the pyramid to preserve the structure.  I visited Chichén Itzá three times.  The first two times I was able to ascend to the top and even climb a staircase within the pyramid that was part of an earlier temple.  On my third trip there everything was closed to climbing.

The Pyramid of the Magician, at the Mayan site of Uxmal was also closed to climbers.

The staircase of this pyramid is especially steep and scary... yet I climbed it twice, the second time with a group of my students.  Cracks were discovered on the structure following Hurricane Gilbert in 1988, and archaeologists have worked to stabilize the pyramid.

A third Mayan pyramid closed to climbing was the Temple of the Inscriptions at Palenque.

When I first visited Palenque you were not only allowed to climb the pyramid, but you could descend a staircase within it that led to the burial chamber of King Pakal... a fascinating experience.  But on my second trip there, the pyramid was off limits.

Teotihuacan, about 30 miles north of Mexico City, is one of the largest archaeological sites in Mexico.  I have lost track of how many times I have climbed the massive Pyramid of the Sun.

You could also climb the Pyramid of the Moon, although you could only go up to the first level since the staircase was not completely restored.

All that changed in 2020 during the pandemic.  The dense crowds of people ascending and descending the steps were deemed a health hazard.  Even after the pandemic, the pyramids remained closed to insure their preservation.

The reason why I am bringing this up is because of an article I read the other day.  As of May 19th (two days ago), the National Institute of Archaeology and History reopened the Pyramid of the Moon to climbing up to the first level.  I'm not sure that the reopening is for the best of reasons.  The Institute said that the decision was made as part of an effort to increase tourism in the Teotihuacan Valley.  Repairs have been made to the steps and a handrail has been put in.

There was no mention of reopening the Pyramid of the Sun.  Visitors will not be able to make the arduous climb and have the spectacular view of the entire archaeological site.  However, they will once again have the impressive panorama from the Pyramid of the Moon looking down the Avenue of the Dead.

It's May

Today is the first of May, which is a legal holiday in Mexico.  As in many countries, today is the equivalent of Labor Day in the U.S.

My calendar, which I had custom-made with photos that I have taken of archaeological sites in Mexico, has this picture for May...

Uxmal is one of the most beautiful Mayan sites in the Yucatan Peninsula.  I have visited it a number of times.  (In fact, when I have played tour guide for friends and family in Mérida, Uxmal has always been a "must see" excursion.)

This structure is all that remains of a large temple quadrangle which was probably one of the oldest buildings at Uxmal.  The open-work of the decorative roof combs would have been covered with stucco decorations and painted.  It reminded the Spaniards of a dovecote, a structure for housing doves or pigeons, and it was they who gave this building its fanciful name. 

Mayan Lords

After all the serious and depressing news that I have posted about the natural disasters in Mexico and Puerto Rico, it is time for a bit of silliness.

On my latest trip to Mexico City, Alejandro and I visited the Anthropology Museum to see the special exhibit on the Mayas.  Along with the hundreds of Mayan artifacts, there were several interactive displays.  One of them, just for fun, was a screen on which you could create a portrait of yourself as a Mayan.  You would take a picture of your face and superimpose it upon your choice of Mayan attire and a background of one of the Mayan cities. 

So here are Alejandro and I... the lords of Uxmal!

Spectacular Uxmal

Of course no visit to Yucatán would be complete without seeing one of the Mayan ruins which dot the peninsula.  The most famous of the Mayan ruins is Chichén Itzá, but I always take my friends to the lesser known, but equally impressive ruins of Uxmal instead.  As I have written before, Chichén Itzá is overrun with tourists and souvenir vendors, and visitors are not allowed to climb any of the ruins.  The other day I was talking with a visitor from Australia, and she confirmed what I have always said.  She had visited both Chichén Itzá and Uxmal, and she felt that Uxmal was a much more satisfying experience.

We were scheduled to leave on our excursion at 9:00 AM.  I had arranged for David Estrella , the owner of a travel agency here in Mérida, to be our driver.  I employed his services last year when I was in Mérida.  He is extremely reliable, extremely punctual, and an all-around nice guy.  I could not ask for a better person to take us on an excursion. 

David arrived a few minutes early while we were finishing our breakfast at the restaurant across the street from the hotel.  I went out to greet him, and we gave each other an "abrazo".  (I continue to amaze Gail and Wes with the number of people I know here.)

The weather today was very different from the past three days.  A "norte" (a cold front from the north) is blowing through.  The temperature was much cooler with a high in the 70s, and the skies were overcast.  We even had a bit of drizzle while we were at the ruins.  It was actually a blessing.  If the sun had been blazing and the temperature had been in the 90s, visiting the ruins would have been an exhausting ordeal.

This was the part of the trip that Wes had been looking forward to the most.  Climbing a pyramid had been on his bucket list, and, as a retired engineer, he found the Mayas' skill in construction to be fascinating.  Uxmal lived up to, and even exceeded, their expectations, and they were not expecting such a large archaeological site.

Upon entering the site, one is greeted by the impressive Pyramid of the Magician.  Climbing this pyramid is prohibited, probably because of the extreme steepness of the steps.  Many years ago, however, climbing was allowed.  Back in the 1980s I went to the top with a group of my students.

(photo courtesy of a kind stranger)

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We past through a corbel arch into the quadrangle which the Spanish called the Nunnery.

  
  
The Nunnery received its name because its four buildings facing a central courtyard reminded the Spaniards of the cloister of a convent.  We don't know the exact purpose of these buildings, but they certainly were not a nunnery.

The architecture of Uxmal is noted for the elaborate decorations along the upper portions of the buildings.  These are made from thousands of pieces of stone fitted together and placed in concrete.

 Built on a platform overlooking the city, the Governor's Palace is the longest, and one of the most impressive buildings of pre-Hispanic Mexico.  Again, the upper portion is intricately adorned with Mayan motifs.  However, as my cousin noted, the overall design of the structure comes across as surprisingly modern. 

 Visitors are not allowed to climb the Pyramid of the Magician, but they are allowed to climb the "Gran Pirámide".  Wes and I set out to conquer it.  (Actually, climbing it is not too difficult, but the descent can be a bit tricky.)

Success!  Wes can cross one item off of his bucket list!

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The Mayan Ball Game

The civilizations of pre-Hispanic Mexico, going back some three thousand years, all played a type of ball game.  The Mayan version of this game was known as "pok-a-tok", and every Mayan city had a ball court.  We do not know all the details of the game, but it was apparently played with a solid rubber ball that weighed around six pounds.  Because of the weight of the ball and its force as it was in play, the players wore padded protective gear.  The players were not allowed to use their hands or feet, and kept the ball in play using their hips and perhaps also shoulders, head, arms, etc.  Many of the ball courts featured stone rings at the sides of the court.  To successfully hurl the ball through the hoop might have been an immediate victory.

The game may have been played simply as sport, but on certain occasions it was certainly played as a form of religious ceremony that ended in human sacrifice.  Archaeologists do not agree on who was sacrificed... the losing team?... the winning team? (if sacrifice was viewed as an honor)... or perhaps just the losing captain?... or the winning captain?  

The ball court at Uxmal

The stone ring at the ball court of Uxmal

The city of Mérida has a number of free events that take place on various plazas during the course of the week.  The latest addition to the calendar of events is a recreation of "pok-a-tok", played each Friday evening on the street in front of the cathedral.

I doubt very much that they are playing with the heavy, solid rubber ball that the Mayas originally used, and the players do not wear the protective padding that used to be worn.  It is, however, a rather rough and tumble game, with the players diving to the pavement in order to bounce the ball off their hips.  A ring hangs over the street, and a number of times the players managed to put the ball through the ring.

The performance ends with a variation of the game with a flaming wooden ball.  The players use their bare hands to throw the fiery ball.  Ouch!

I am very suspicious of the historical accuracy of this portion of the game.  I have never read anything about the Mayas playing with a ball in flames.  But it does make for a crowd pleasing finale to the event. 

The Grandeur of Uxmal

About forty miles to the south of Mérida is one of the most important and impressive Mayan archaeological sites in Mexico... Uxmal.  More one thousand years ago it was the dominant city of this part of the Yucatan Peninsula.

Of course I had to take Frank there.  This was the eighth time that I have visited Uxmal, yet each time I thrill as I enter the site and see the lofty Pyramid of the Magician looming before me.

A corbelled arch leads into the quadrangle which the Spanish called the Nunnery.  Each of the four buildings which surround the courtyard are decorated with intricate stone mosaics.

The Palace of the Governor stretches for more than 300 feet, and is the longest building of any pre-Hispanic site in Mexico.  It too is adorned with incredible mosaics.

A climb to the top of the Great Pyramid provides a superb view of the ancient city.

 Frank was extremely impressed with Uxmal.  He found it amazing that the Maya, without the use of iron tools, were able to build this great city.  

Seven Archaeological Wonders

Since ancient times people have been making lists.  Ancient Greek writers compiled a list of wonders of their known world... seven of them because they considered the number seven to represent perfection.

I have always been fascinated by vanished civilizations, so I thought I would make a list of my seven favorite archaeological sites.  Just as the Greeks did not have knowledge of the entire world, I have not traveled to many astounding places. I have not seen the Coliseum of Rome, the Parthenon of Athens, or the Great Pyramids of Egypt, just to name a few.  Obviously, since I have traveled so many times to Mexico, sites in that country are overrepresented. 

There are also some places I have visited which many travelers would probably put on their list, but which I have not included.  It is certainly amazing how the ancient inhabitants of Britain transported huge stones to create Stonehenge.  Yet that site did not "wow" me.  (The fact that visitors are no longer allowed to get close to the ruins did not help.)  The Mayan city of Chichén Itzá made it to the new list of wonders announced in 2007.  As impressive as it is, the hordes of day-trippers who flock there from Cancun and the army of annoying souvenir vendors have spoiled it for me.

So here is my very subjective list...   

7.  The Roman Aqueduct in Segovia, Spain

 

 

Every time I visit Segovia I catch my breath when I first glimpse this aqueduct built by the Romans 2000 years ago. It is nearly 100 feet high, and was built entirely without mortar.  The fact that it has survived the centuries and continued to provide water to the city until the 19th century is amazing.

 

 

 

6.  The Mayan Ruins of Uxmal, Mexico

 

 



With its pyramids, palaces, and intricately designed stone mosaic decorations, Uxmal is one of the most impressive Mayan cities.  When I take friends to the Yucatán, I take them here rather than to Chichén Itzá.   No crowds, no vendors, and you can still climb most of the ruins.


5.  Teotihuacán, Mexico

More than fifteen hundred years ago, Teotihuacán was one of the largest cities in the entire world.  And then it was mysteriously abandoned.  It's sheer size is astounding.  The Pyramid of the Sun is the third largest pyramid in the world.  Although it receives large numbers of visitors (it's located about 30 miles from Mexico City), the site's vastness easily absorbs the crowds.  The two pyramids can be climbed, offering impressive views.


4.  Palenque, Mexico

Located in the tropical rainforest of the Mexican state of Chiapas, Palenque is one of the most beautiful examples of classic Mayan art and architecture.  Although you are no longer permitted to climb the Pyramid of the Inscriptions and descend into the burial chamber of King Pakal, it remains a stunning and evocative site.


3.  Cantona, Mexico

Not many people have heard of this impressive site which is located about three hours from Mexico City near the border of the states of Puebla and Veracruz.  More than 1000 years ago it was a major city along the trade route from the Gulf coast to the Mexican highlands.  It is the largest archaeological site in Mexico.  The beautiful scenery all around you, and the fact that you have the place almost to yourself, make this one of my favorites.


2.  Monte Albán, Mexico

Two thousand years ago the Zapotec tribe leveled the top of a mountain to construct their huge ceremonial center.  It is an amazing construction feat. All around you are marvelous views of the mountains and valleys of Oaxaca.


1. Machu Picchu, Peru

 

 

There is absolutely no doubt that my favorite archaeological site is the Incan ruins of Machu Picchu in the Andes Mountains of Peru.  It was constructed 1000 feet above the valley floor on a saddle between two mountain peaks.  The astonishing Incan stonework combined with the spectacular mountain scenery combine to make this the most incredible place that I have ever visited!

Adventures in Uxmal

Today Alejandro and I rented a car and drove to the Mayan ruins of Uxmal.  We have visited quite a few archaeological sites together in central Mexico,  but Alejandro had never seen any Mayan ruins.  

I had been there just two weeks earlier with Nancy and Fred, and we visited all the major structures that I had shown them.

 

(We both made it to the top of the Great Pyramid)

But then we continued on to some less restored structures that I had seen before, but which I had not shown to Nancy and Fred.  We went the remains of this building which the Spanish called "El Palomar" (the House of the Doves).  It was given that name because the holes in the roof decorations reminded the Spanish of a dovecote.  In fact it is all that remains of what would have been another grand quadrangle of buildings.

 

We continued on to a group of ruins known as the Cemetery.  The Spanish gave it that name because on several platforms there are carvings of skulls and bones.  There is, however, no evidence that the area was a burial ground.

 

Then we got really into "Indiana Jones" mode and took some paths through the forests to ruins that I had never seen before on my numerous visits to Uxmal.

We found of group of phallic carvings.  I couldn't resist taking a picture of the sign in front of them.

 

We continued along a narrow path to the remains of a pyramid-like structure called the House of the Old Woman.  Archaeologists think that it is the oldest building in Uxmal.

Finally we hiked some distance through the forest and came to a small ruin called the House of the Phallii.

We spent more than three hours at Uxmal, and it was the most complete visit that I have ever had of this magnificent Mayan city.

The impressive Pyramid of the Magician

 

Yucatán trio

No, this post is not about a trio of musicians in guayabera shirts, strumming their guitars while singing "trova" music.  It is about the three uniquely Yucatecan places that we visited Monday.  We hired a driver through the hotel to take us on some day excursions outside of the city, and Monday was our first excursion.  I had planned the itinerary to highlight some important aspects of the Yucatán.

Our driver, Jaime, arrived right on time at 8:00 A.M.  We left the city heading south and soon were out in the countryside.  The scenery of most of the Yucatán Peninsula is frankly very boring... a Mexican Kansas in that it is as flat as a pancake.  The peninsula is a river-less shelf of limestone covered with only a couple feet of soil.  In hundreds of spots throughout the Yucatán, the limestone crust has collapsed forming sinkholes.  These sinkholes are openings which lead down to the subterranean water table.   These natural wells were the Mayas' source of water during the dry season.  They called them "dznot"... today we refer to them as "cenotes."  A visitor to the Yucatán should see at least one "cenote".

We turned off the main highway and traveled several miles on a narrow paved road through the little town of Cacao and on to the even smaller village of San Antonio Mulix.  A short distance from the village are two "cenotes".  The villagers have formed a cooperative to operate the "cenotes" as an eco-tourism site.  Visitors pay an admission, and the funds benefit the village.  Although the "cenotes" are not far from the village, the final leg of the journey, along a rough, dirt road hemmed in by the forest, seemed to take forever.  Nancy and Fred surely were thinking "Where the heck is he taking us?!"   I asked them, "Do you feel like Indiana Jones yet?" 

We only visited one of the two "cenotes".  A few years ago several scenes from a Mexican "telenovela" (soap opera) were filmed there.  We walked down a path, descending to the water level of the sinkhole.  It would have been more beautiful if it had been a sunny day, but it is a very tranquil, lovely spot.  The water is crystal clear.  In the deepest area it is a very deep shade of blue.  The roots of the trees above dangle down the side of the limestone cliff, and lily pads dot the shallower portions of the water.  

We continued on to our next stop.  We soon entered an area of the peninsula known as the "Puuc".  "Puuc" is the Mayan word for hills, and this is the only region of the Yucatán that is not flat.  More than 1000 years ago a number of Mayan cities flourished here. 

Obviously, any traveler to the Yucatán should visit at least one archaeological site.  The most famous of the Mayan ruins is Chichén Itzá,  located halfway between Mérida and Cancún.  However when I play "tour guide" to friends I never take them to Chichén.  The ruins are indeed very impressive, but they are completely overrun with tourists who arrive by the busload from Cancún.  Because of the huge number of tourists, the structures have been roped off to protect them from wear and tear...  you cannot climb anything at Chichén Itzá.  Finally, every path within the archaeological site is lined with vendors selling tourist junk, much of it made in China.  In my opinion, this magnificent gem has been turned into a Mayan Disneyland!

So it is that I always take friends to the great Puuc ruins of Uxmal.  I think that Uxmal is just as impressive as Chichén Itzá...  in fact, I think Uxmal is more aesthetically pleasing.  Uxmal receives a fair number of tourists, but does not feel crowded.  You are still allowed to climb the ruins with the exception of the Pyramid of the Magician.  (I suspect that it was closed due to safety concerns.  The steps are extremely steep.)  Blessedly there is not a single vendor within the gates of the archaeological site!  (If you need to shop for souvenirs, there are some shops... some of very nice quality... in the visitors' center.  And there are some vendors' stalls out by the parking lot.)

When you enter the archaeological site the first structure you see is the Pyramid of the Magician.  I'm glad that I had the opportunity to climb it years ago when it was allowed.  

 

Notice how steep the steps are.

 Near the pyramid are a group of buildings which the Spanish called the Nunnery.  The four buildings facing a central courtyard reminded them of a convent.  In fact the complex might have been a school where the sons of the city's elite were educated.  The upper portion of each building is decorated with intricate mosaic designs formed from thousands of pieces of stone.

 

  

 Beyond the Nunnery is the ball court where a ceremonial ball game was played.  Without using their hands or feet, the players would attempt to get a hard rubber ball through the ring on the side of the court.

 

On a mound overlooking the city, stands the impressive Palace of the Governor.  Once again, the upper portion of the structure is lavishly decorated with stone mosaics.

 

Beside the Governor's Palace is the "Gran Pirámide" (Great Pyramid).  Climbing is allowed on this pyramid.  Fred and Nancy did not make it to the top, but I did.  This was my fourth time climbing it.

I am the king of Uxmal!

We had seen a cenote and had visited a Mayan ruin.  Our third and final stop was at an hacienda.  In the late 19th and early 20th century the haciendas of Yucatán produced most of the world's supply of rope from the fiber of the henequen plant.  The landowners made fortunes while their Mayan laborers were little more than slaves..  

We visited Hacienda Ochil, a former henequen plantation, which today is a very nice restaurant specializing in Yucatecan cuisine.

  

Fred and Nancy with our driver Jaime

We returned to Mérida after a very full day of typically Yucatecan sights.