In the South of the City

On Thursday I went to Xochimilco, one of the southernmost districts within the Mexico City limits.  It took me about an hour and a half to get there... first by Metrobus, then Line 2 of the subway all the way to its terminus, and then on the Light Rail which heads all the way to Xochimilco.

Xochimilco in pre-Hispanic times was a separate city and remained so up until the 20th century when it was absorbed into Mexico City.  However, the district still maintains the feel of small-town Mexico. It seems removed from the metropolis of which it is a part.

Xochimilco is best known for its so-called "Floating Gardens".  In pre-Hispanic times, most of the Valley of Mexico was covered by a series of shallow lakes.  The inhabitants would build "chinampas", rafts covered with soil on which to farm.  These "floating gardens" became rooted to the lake bottom, forming a network of islands separated by canals.  Xochimilco is the last remaining area of canals and "chinampas" in the Valley of Mexico.  The "chinampas" continue to be used for agricultural purposes.  Today the "Floating Gardens" are a popular spot for Mexico City residents (and tourists) to go for a weekend outing.  They rent one of the colorfully decorated, flat-bottomed boats called "trajineras", and the boatmen navigate the boats through the canals.  The atmosphere is festive, even raucous, as boatloads of mariachis and food and drink vendors ply their way amid the weekend revelers.

I have been to the "Floating Gardens" several times, but I have never explored the historic center of Xochimilco.  That was my purpose for taking the long ride to the south.

I walked several blocks from the Light Rail station to the central plaza.  Along the way I passed this interesting church, the Chapel of Our Lady of the Rosary, which was buillt in the 18th century.

I was attracted by the unique decoration on the facade.  From a distance it looked like the cut paper banners that are used on holidays, but on closer inspection it was intricate plaster work.

The plaza was just a short distance down the street.  One portion is a large, paved esplanade.

In the background is the market building, and in the distance the mountain of Ajusco.

As in many places in Mexico (and, I guess, around the world) there are large letters spelling out "Xochimilco" for a photo op.

This statue of the two revolutionary leaders, Emiliano Zapata and Pancho Villa, commemorates the Pact of Xochimilco.  They formed an alliance here in 1914, and with their combined armies of 50,000 were able to take Mexico City.

This monument honors Cuauhtémoc, the last of the Aztec emperors.  Next to the bust is a poem which begins, "You are a living symbol of the fighting bronze race, you did not bend your neck before the weapons of the conqueror."

 

Next to the esplanade is a shady area with a traditional bandstand.

A statue of Morelos, one of the heroes of Mexico's War of Independence

A vendor on the plaza selling "raspados", shaved ice flavored with syup.

Beyond the plaza is Xochimilco's most important church, the Church of San Bernardino de Siena.

This church was established by Franciscan monks and was built between 1535 and 1590.  Like many churches of that era it has a fortress-like appearance.  Indeed, it was intended to serve as a fortress in case of native revolts.

 Details from the church's carved wooden doors

The interior contains one of the few altarpieces from the the 16th century remaining in Mexico.  Unfortunately, the church had closed shortly before I arrived.  I guess I will have to make a return trip to Xochimilco.