The Proper Name

This decoration on the doorway of a residence is a reminder of the correct way to say "Day of the Dead" in Mexico.

 Although in English we say "Day of THE Dead", in Spanish the word "the" is not translated.  Any Mexican will tell you that the correct name for the holiday is "Día de Muertos" NOT "Día de los Muertos".  If you see an article in the newspaper or on the internet which talks about "Día de los Muertos", the author has not done his/her research.  And if you see a decoration that has "Día de los Muertos" on it, chances are that it is made in China.

By the way, the first time that I said "Día de los Muertos", Alejandro was quick to correct me.

Getting Made Up

Last Sunday, another Day of the Dead event, the Procession of the "Catrinas", was going to be held in the evening.  It was to begin at the Monument to Independence along the Paseo de la Reforma and continue on the Zócalo, the city's main plaza.

As Alejandro and I walked down the boulevard, we saw scores of booths where make-up artists were painting faces.  Some of their customers were probably people who were going to participate in the procession later that day.  Many others were spectators who simply were getting into the spirit of the event.  Although neither Alejandro nor I got our faces painted this year, we certainly enjoyed watching the artists transforming their clients into "catrinas" and "catrines".

Here are some photos...

 

Along Reforma

Mexico City is at its most festive in the days leading up to Day of the Dead.

Last Sunday Alejandro and I walked down the city's iconic boulevard, the Paseo de la Reforma to soak up the holiday atmosphere.

Statues of "catrinas", elegantly attired skeletons, line a portion of the boulevard.

Along another portion of Reforma, the "Mexicráneos" are on display.  These large, fiberglass skulls have been a part of the city's Day of the Dead decorations since 2017.  Each one is uniquely painted by different Mexican artists.  Some of the "Mexicráneos" were from previous years, and others were new for 2025.

You could climb into one of the "Mexicráneos" for a photo op.  For these old bones, it was hard to climb in and out!

You'll see more of the "Mexicráneos" in a future post.

These skulls were not part of the "Mexicráneos" display, but simply more of the Day of the Dead decorations.

The marigolds surrounding this skull were badly in need of watering.

For the last several years, a portion of the boulevard has been devoted to a Marigold Festival.  Local nurseries set up stalls selling flowers.  The "cempasúchil", as marigolds are known in Mexico, is an essential part of the "ofrendas" that people set up in their homes.  It is thought that the flower's pungent smell guides the souls of the departed back to their homes on the Day of the Dead.

A giant figure of a "xolo", a Mexican hairless dog, stands along Reforma.  In pre-Hispanic times, it was thought that the "xolo" guided the souls of the dead on their journey to the underworld.

Marigolds are planted around the Monument to Independence.

An enormous "catrina" figure stands in front of the monument.

More from the Paseo de la Reforma in upcoming posts.

Coffee, Chocolate and Bread of the Dead

 I saw an article about the "Feria de Café, Cacao y Pan de Muerto" (Fair of Coffee, Chocolate and Bread of the Dead) which was going to be held on October 25th and 26th.  We decided to check it out last Saturday afternoon.

There were more than 100 vendors at the fair.

There was a wide variety of different flavors of "pan de muerto"

These fellows came all the way from the state of Tabasco to sell their artisanal chocolate.

 

There were also handicrafts for sale.  I bought a skull made from Oaxacan black pottery to add to my Day of the Dead decorations.

Although the fair could have been an interesting event, the venue, a hall in the southern district of Churubusco, was much too small for the number of vendors.  You could barely move through the crowd, and it was very hot inside.  It was not an event to which we would return.

Market Snack

Usually when I go to Mexico City's Jamaica Market, I will stop at one of the market restaurants for a bite to eat, and last week's visit to the market was no exception.

Many years ago, I was looking at Jamaica Market on Google Maps, and I was reading the reviews for some of the food counters.  One place stood out for its many excellent reviews... "Carnitas Paty".  The place serves two things... "tacos de carnitas" (braised, chopped pork) and "tepache", a refreshing beverage made from slightly fermented pineapple.  

If you have read this blog over the years, you may recall that I have written about "Carnitas Paty" numerous times.  If so, forgive the repetition.

The counter at "Carnitas Paty" is always busy, but I have always been able to find a seat.

I ordered a taco and a glass of "tepache".  They always heap a lot of meat on the tortilla.  It is garnished with chopped onion and cilantro.  There are bowls of green and red salsa to spoon onto the taco.

The taco is so loaded, that I always spill a lot of the filling onto the plate when I fold it and try to eat it.  The lady at the counter (I think it was Paty, the owner) asked if I wanted another tortilla.  I said "yes" and I scooped up what was left on the plate.

I have written before, that, unless you are adventurous, you should ask for "maciza" when ordering "carnitas".  "Maciza" includes the cuts of pork, such as shoulder, that we "gringos" are used to.  Mexicans make use of every part of the animal, and you can order tacos of tongue, stomach, snout, ears, etc.  Many argue that "maciza" is dryer and less flavorful than other parts, but this "gringo" is perfectly satisfied with more mundane cuts of meat. 

The Pets Come Home

It is not just the souls of departed relatives and friends who supposedly return to the realm of the living during this season.  According to tradition, today, October 27th, is the day when deceased pets come back to their former homes.  (It makes sense that the animals have a day, since most people consider their pets a part of the family.)

Alejandro's sister has this photo placed on their "ofrenda"... a photo of two of their pets who passed away a few years ago.

Olinka (left) and Luna were both around when I first met Alejandro.  Luna was rescued by the family from the street and tended to be suspicious of outsiders.  But very quickly we hit it off.  Luna was very affectionate with me and loved to be petted.  When I would stop, she would take her paw and scratch me to let me know that she wanted more.

If there is any truth to the tradition, welcome home Olinka and Luna!