Some Americans have an image of Mexico City as one vast slum. Indeed, probably one half of the city lives in poverty, but there are also many millionaires. Metropolitan Mexico City has a population of over twenty million people. The top two percent would constitute more than 400,000 people... that's more than the population of my hometown of Cleveland, Ohio.
The most accessible of the posh neighborhoods is Polanco. Although it is close to the attractions of Chapultepec Park, and has many upscale hotels and restaurants, it is not a district that I frequently visit. There is very little of touristic interest here... unless one's idea of a vacation is to shop in ritzy designer shops. However, on my latest visit to Mexico City I decided to spend some time wandering around the neighborhood and taking some pictures for my blog.
Polanco was first developed in the late 1930s, and became the new "in" place for the city's elite. The original homes there were luxurious mansions built in neo-colonial style. Some of those older houses still exist.
However, as the neighborhood continued to develop, many of the old mansions were torn down, or converted into embassies or commercial offices and businesses. Modern homes and high-rise apartment buildings filled the district. An apartment in Polanco can cost millions of dollars.
The main street in Polanco is Avenida Presidente Masaryk (named after the first President of Czechoslovakia). When the more central "Zona Rosa" neighborhood became less fashionable, most of the upscale stores moved here. Today Avenida Presidente Masaryk is often compared to Rodeo Drive.
At the time that I was there, construction work was being done on the avenue and the sidewalks, so it seemed a bit less glamorous than usual.
Some of the shops along the avenue had signs advertising sales for "el Buen Fin". "El Buen Fin" is a weekend in November that is comparable to our "Black Friday". It is the official beginning of the holiday shopping season, and stores are offering discounts.
However, the majority of the stores along the avenue were not offering "Buen Fin" specials. After all, one does not shop at Gucci or Tiffany's expecting bargains!
This is one Mexico City neighborhood where I, dressed in jeans and a T-shirt, felt like a plebian. I did not go into any of the shops. The intimidating doormen / security guards, dressed in suits and ties, would have probably looked down their noses at me if I had entered these domains of the very rich.
I almost never hang out in Polanco. To me it feels like it wants to be part of the USA and not part of Mexico. And it feels a smidgen soulless too. My friend from Switzerland put it best when we met up there. "This place could really be anywhere. There's nothing here that says you're in Mexico."
ReplyDeleteAs for the number of millionaires in DF, you are certainly spot-on. As someone who has spent embarrassing amounts of time "fantasy real estate shopping," I can tell you that you could easily spend $1 million USD on a house, and not have the most expensive house in the city, by far.
In my view, Roma Norte, Condesa, and parts of Coyoacán are FAR more interesting than Polanco, with plenty of posh people who aren't such poseurs.
Saludos,
Kim G
Boston, MA
Where we think discreet wealth is far better than flaunting it.
I totally agree with you about Polanco. I can count on one hand the number of times that I have been in the neighborhood.
ReplyDeleteSaludos,
Bill
Love the photo of the old house with the beautifully carved cantera surrounds around the doors and windows. Magnificent.
ReplyDeleteThere are a few good restaurants in Polanco. I think that's where I was.
Thanks, Barbara.
DeleteYes, there are some very elegant restaurants there. But with all the good places to eat within walking distance of where I stay in Condesa, I've never had any inclination to venture there for dinner.
Saludos!