The land was originally the private estate of a Spanish noblewoman (hence the name "Condesa" which means "countess"). Development of the area began in the early twentieth century. There once was a racetrack in the neighborhood, but in the 1920's the inside of the track was turned into a park, Parque México, and the oval shape of Avenida México and Avenida Amsterdam are due to the fact that they follow the perimeter of the old racetrack. Development was in full swing by the 1920s and 1930s. The neighborhood attracted affluent residents who moved into "neo-colonial" and "art deco" homes and apartment buildings. By the 1970s, the wealthy families were moving into newer, more fashionable neighborhoods, and Condesa fell into decline. But by the 1990s the lower property values were attracting a new generation of young professionals and intellectuals, and the neighborhood reemerged as a fashionable upper-middle class district. Although it is primarily residential, the area is also considered one of the trendiest parts of the city for dining and entertainment.
Some examples of art deco and neo-colonial architecture in the neighborhood
A shady walkway along Avenida Amsterdam
Parque México
Condesa boasts a wide range of dining options, from hole-in-the-wall "taquerías" to expensive
international restaurants.
Flower vendors are on many street corners.
Bougainvilleas are always in bloom.
The jacaranda trees are beginning to bloom, a sign that spring is around the corner.
Mexico City is indeed a magnificent city that boasts a large amount of attractions for both locals and tourists, and its mild weather makes walking a very enjoyable activity. Back in 1998 I worked for El Norte newspaper (Monterrey), and also wrote articles that were published in Reforma. For this reason, every two weeks I had to visit this wonderful city and get paid for having breakfast, lunch, and dinner at different restaurants -- I was an undercover restaurant critic. In those years I ate so much, tasted a great variety of dishes, and walked so many streets in elegant areas of Mexico City. Condesa was always one of my favorite places to visit.
ReplyDeleteCondesa still has a huge number of restaurants, but the new "in" place for dining is next door in Colonia Roma Norte. I have read some articles going so far as to declare it one of the top dining areas in the entire world! I don't know if I would go that far, but I must say that I have eaten at 3 restaurants in Roma Norte, and I really liked all 3 of them. In fact, later this week I want to return to one of them... Angelopolitano. Their "chiles en nogada" are superb!
DeleteCondesa is one of my favorite neighborhoods in DF, for all the reasons you post above. I've done a fair bit of fantasy real-estate shopping there, and am still kicking myself for having passed up on the opportunity to buy a 5-bedroom house there in 2007 for about $248K USD. It was perfectly located, and is now worth about twice that price, despite the subsequent decline of the peso. But all my friends now say Condesa is overvalued. Who knows? But it's definitely the place to find trendy, rich Mexicans.
ReplyDeleteHave you tried Buena Tierra on the corner of Atlixco and Michoacán? It's a great organic restaurant, with good food, and very nice smoothies. Even though it's a small chain, it's well worth going to.
By the way, I finally (FINALLY!) put your blog on my blogroll (along with a couple others) and wrote a brief post about it.
Saludos,
Kim G
Boston, MA
Where there is absolutely, positively no sign at all of anything even resembling spring. None. Zip. Nada.
Yes, Alejandro and I have been to Buena Tierra several times. We really like it, and it's a short walk from the apartment where I stay.
DeleteNext time you're in D.F. try out a place called "Angelopolitano" on the corner of Puebla and Sonora. It specializes in cuisine from Puebla and the "chiles en nogada" are superb. Another place to try, even though it's a chain with locations in a number of the fancier malls, is "El Bajio". Great traditional Mexican cooking.
I've been to several of the El Bajios, particularly the one in Reforma 222, but I've found the food to be kind of hit or miss.
DeleteOn my last trip to D.F., last November, we went to the one at Reforma 222, and then another one at a mall on the south side of the city, and we had really good meals both times.
DeleteWell, thanks for this! I will be in Condesa for a mere 24 hours in late February. We are going to ride the Turibus, find a great restaurant and visit the Museo. I know we will be wishing for more. . .
ReplyDeleteThanks for your comment. I'm glad that you will have the chance to visit Mexico City, but what a shame that you will only be there for one day. I assume you are referring to the Museum of Anthropology. It's great. (I have a post on it that I wrote last November.) You could spend hours there, but with your limited time you will have to pick and choose. I would recommend the halls dealing with the culture of Teotihuacan, the Mayas, and the Mexicas (Aztecs).
DeleteAs for restaurants, don't limit yourself to Condesa. Right next door to Condesa is the neighborhood of Roma Norte which currently has taken the crown of the "in" dining spot in Mexico City.
Some people like the turibus... I took it last year, and hated it. I saw no fun in crawling for hours in Mexico City traffic. I rather be out there walking around and experiencing the city on foot.
Have a great trip!!
Thank you. I hadn't considered the traffic. Maybe we should skip the Turibus. I guess it will depend on when we get to town.
ReplyDeleteLike I said, some people love the Turibus, but with your limited amount of time in the city, I personally wouldn't want to spend several hours stuck on a bus.
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