A Hot Time in the Old Town Tonight

Last night, after our excursion to Izamal, I asked Jane what she wanted to do.  I told her that on Saturday nights they always have a "Noche Mexicana"  (Mexican Night) at the "Remate de Paseo Montejo" (a park located where Montejo Boulevard begins).  The folk dancing at the "Noche Mexicana" is always enjoyable, but, I'm sorry to say, some of the vocalists that perform are really pretty bad.  We decided instead to just take a leisurely stroll around the plaza and Calle 60, and have a drink at one of the sidewalk cafés.  

We left the house around 8:30 P.M., and the streets seemed pretty quiet.  But when we reached Calle 60 (the main street of the "centro") things were hopping.  The street was closed to vehicular traffic, as it is every weekend, and the restaurants had tables in the street.  I can't help but compare downtown Mérida with Cleveland.  With the exception of a few dining and entertainment areas, downtown Cleveland is dead even on a weekend night.  Downtown Mérida, on the other hand is bustling late into the night on weekends.

We strolled down Calle 60 to the main plaza to find throngs of people.  The streets around the plaza are also closed to traffic on weekends, and two stages had been set up.  On the stage in front of the Government Palace, a performance was already underway.   They were doing a comedy sketch, which was followed by a folklore ballet performing the traditional dance of the Yucatán, the "jarana".

We then walked down to "Sorbetería Colón", the sorbet shop on the plaza which has been a favorite with the "Meridanos" since 1907.  Once again they did not have my favorite flavor, "mamey", but Jane enjoyed a lemon sorbet, and I had a peach sorbet.

After our sorbet, we continued our stroll around the plaza.  We reached the Cathedral side of the plaza and walked through the brightly illuminated covered passageway between the Cathedral and the former archbishop's palace (today the museum of contemporary art).  There is always a display of modern sculpture in the passageway...  not always my "cup of tea", but interesting.

By this time the performance was well underway on the other stage set up in front of the Cathedral.  An outstanding female vocalist from Portugal was performing.  Her name is Cristina Branco, and she was excellent! After her performance she came back on stage for an encore.  She sang an example of "fado".  "Fado" is a genre of Portuguese music characterized by melancholy tunes and lyrics.  I have read about "fado", but I had never heard any until last night.  The encore was mesmerizing and haunting.  

Her concert was a part of Mérida Fest, a month long celebration of cultural events that is held every January.

We strolled back down busy Calle 60 to the café next to Peón Contreras Theater.  We had a bite to eat and some X'tabentún.  I can't recall if I have mentioned X'tabentún in earlier posts.  It is a honey anise liqueur that is produced only in the Yucatán.  It is difficult to find in other parts of Mexico, and almost impossible to find in the U.S.  I introduced Jane to X'tabentún, and she really likes it.  While we slowly sipped and savored our liqueur, we listened to my favorite Mérida musician.  He performs almost nightly at the café.

It was nearly midnight when we heard a thunderous noise coming down Calle 60.  It was a parade of drummers marching toward the main plaza.  After we finished our drinks, we headed back to the plaza, where we found a large crowd listening to the drummers performing on the stage in front of the cathedral.   There were 100 drummers, and, as a part of Mérida Fest, they were playing in homage to Nelson Mandela.

Around 12:30 A.M. we took a taxi back to the house.  We were in a state of disbelief over all that we had experienced in those few hours.  What a tremendous night!!

                                              The illuminated facade of the Cathedral