cablebus

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Sunday, January 19, 2014

Back to Izamal

Yesterday, Jane and I took an excursion to Izamal, the picturesque town located about 45 minutes to the east of Mérida.  We did all the things that I did with Fred and Nancy.  We successfully climbed to the top of the Kinich Kakmo Pyramid, visited the 16th century monastery of San Antonio de Padua, and had a very good dinner of Yucatecan food at Restaurante Kinich.  And once again the highlight of the day, and one of the most memorable experiences of the entire trip, was a visit to the workshop of Esteban Abán.  

Don Esteban is a very talented  Mayan artesan who has been perfecting his art for more than forty years.   As I described in an earlier post, don Esteban creates beautiful jewelry from the spines of the henequen plant and cocoyol, the seeds of a certain variety of palm tree.  What I did not describe previously (because I didn't want Jane to read the blog, and have the surprise spoiled) is the delightful presentation which he gives visitors to his workshop.  He welcomed us with a warm greeting in Mayan, and sang a song to us in the Mayan language.  He then carved from a henequen spine a tiny horse's hoof which he gave to Jane as a souvenir.  He showed us how he takes the rough coyocol seeds and polishes then to brilliant shine and uses them as beads in his jewelry.

Don Esteban at work


 A tiny horse's hoof carved from a henequen spine

 
The rough coyocol seed is polished to a brilliant shine


Jane models one of don Esteban's beautifully crafted necklaces


Yes, I suppose that to a certain degree, it's all a sales pitch, but there is no denying his tremendous talent, his passion for his art and for his Mayan heritage, and for his enthusiasm in welcoming visitors to his shop.  This is the fourth time that I have taken friends to his workshop, and they have always come away saying that it was one of the most unique and unforgettable experiences of the trip. 

This was our last excursion, so I should give special mention to our driver Jaime, who made these day trips outside of the city possible for Jane and for Fred and Nancy.  Jaime is a very reliable driver, and always arrived on time.  But much more than that, he is a very personable, thoughtful, and intelligent fellow.  During the hours spent driving all over the state of Yucatán, we had many interesting conversations, and he made our travels even more enjoyable.

 
                  Jaime and Jane at Restaurante Kinich

             ¡Muchas gracias, Jaime!

 
   

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