city at night

city at night

Friday, November 3, 2017

Saturday Night Downtown

Day of the Dead is now over, but I have much more to report about that festive celebration.

Let's go back to last Saturday.  Alejandro and I had seen the parade, and we had wandered around wearing our Day of the Dead make-up, photographing others in make-up and being photographed.  Night was beginning to fall, and we were trying to decide where to have supper.  

We ended up on the Plaza Tolsa, named after the Spanish sculptor and architect who left his mark on Mexico City in the late 18th and early 19th century.  In the center of the plaza is his equestrian statue of King Carlos IV of Spain, commonly referred to as "El Caballito" (the Little Horse). 


Located on this plaza is a branch of one of our favorite Mexican restaurants, "El Cardenal".  But, unfortunately, the one bad thing about "El Cardenal" is that they are not open in the evenings.  They were just closing as we stopped by.

On another side of the plaza is a magnificent neo-classical building designed by Tolsa.  It was once the School of Mining.  It is now owned by the University of Mexico and is usually closed to the public.  However, this evening, the doors were open and people were going inside.


We entered the courtyard to find that there was a concert of "estudiantinas".  An "estudiantina" is a group of student troubadours, a tradition going back to medieval Spain.  However, looking at the age of the performers, I suspect that most of them are professors rather than students.




After watching a couple groups perform, we continued our search for a place to eat.  Also facing the plaza was another restaurant called "Los Girasoles" (The Sunflowers), and we decided to give it a try.  It turned out to a rather pricey but excellent choice.



We both began with a decadent cream of pistachio soup garnished with rose petals.  I wasn't impressed with the taste of rose petals, but the soup itself was delicious.


For our main course, Alejandro had a stuffed pepper dish and I had traditional Mexican meatballs with a chipotle sauce.  Both dishes were very good.



We ate very carefully so as to not mess up our make-up.

From the upper floor of the restaurant there is an excellent view of the plaza.  In the center you can see the equestrian statue, to the left is the old School of Mining, and to the right is the National Museum of Art.  "El Cardenal" is in the building on the opposite side of the plaza.


After supper we headed to the Zocalo, the main plaza.  The Cathedral was illuminated as I had not seen it in years.

Mexico City's city hall on the opposite side of the Zocalo


The plaza was full of people admiring the decorations.




And there were many more people to photograph...





At 10:00 PM downtown Mexico City was still bustling with activity.


But sadly, it was time for us to call it a day, and head back to the apartment.



5 comments:

  1. Great pictures and impressive makeup! You should check out the Bond movie "Spectre," or at least the first ten minutes of it, which feature an action sequence set in the middle of Day of the Dead festivities in the Centro Historico.

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    1. Thanks, Scott. It was a really fun day.
      I have not seen "Spectre". I should check out YouTube and see if anyone has uploaded that opening sequence.

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  2. I read more of your posts and answered my own question. As I watched "Spectre," I asked myself if those parades really occurred, or if it was invented for the movie?

    Cool nonetheless, and a more macabre follow-up to the Alebrijes parade from earlier this fall.

    I've been behind on my blog and am just catching up on yours, too.

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  3. Los Girasoles is one of my favorite, go-to restaurants in Mexico City. Yes, it's a little pricey, but the food and service are both excellent. I'm always afraid it's going to go out of business, though. Oftentimes I'll go there in the evening and there are very few customers.

    As for "estudiantinas," Guanajuato has them. Some time back before I understood much Spanish, say 2008 or 2009, F and I went there and did the tour with them as they told ghost stories and other tales of the city. I'd love to go back now that I'd be able to understand what they're saying. I also think there are such events in Morelia, though my memory may be failing me there.

    Great photos of the people and events!

    Saludos,

    Kim G
    Redding, CA
    Where we did manage to give candy to trick-or-treaters on Halloween.

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    1. Yes, Los Girasoles now will be our place to go if we are downtown and El Cardenal has already closed for the evening.
      The "estudiantinas" go back to Spain, where they are called "tunas".
      Saludos,
      Bill

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