"Ofrendas" Throughout the City

Day of the Dead is over, but I still have a lot of photos to share with you from that festive season in Mexico City.

If you have been reading my posts on the Day of the Dead, you know that an "ofrenda" is an altar that is set up to honor departed loved ones, and it is believed that their souls will return to visit on that day.  Most household will set up an "ofrenda", but you will also find them in many public places throughout the city.  Here are a few photos of "ofrendas" that I found in the last couple of weeks...

Many stores and businesses set up "ofrendas".

Inside the entrance of a restaurant downtown

In the lobby of the Hotel Majestic on the Zócalo

I saw this "ofrenda" inside the gate of a Catholic school in Colonia del Valle.  I assume that the photos are of former teachers and administrators that have passed away.

The Museum of Popular Arts had an elaborate "ofrenda" and loads of "papel picado" banners in the courtyard. The unusual circular "ofrenda" was covered with paper marigolds and decorated with papier mache skeletons, including a dapper, devil "catrín" with horns and tail.

The Museo Kaluz, a private art museum, had a rather gruesome "ofrenda" in Aztec style with a wall of skulls.

There was an outdoor "ofrenda" in front of the Church of San Fernando.

In the church's graveyard, where many famous 19th century Mexicans are buried, there were a series of "ofrendas" created by students from a school.  The theme of all of them was the 2024 Paris Olympics.  I found that rather odd, since I doubt if any of the athletes who participated in the games a few months ago have died.

Finally, the "ofrenda" that I set up in my apartment, on the eve of Day of the Dead.

An Insider's Look

 As I said, there were barricades along the sidewalks, closing off the Paseo de la Reforma as the Procession of the Catrinas was getting organized.  At one point, the police had opened the barricade so that people could cross the street.  We took advantage of that, and rather than crossing the street we just ambled down Reforma, taking pictures as if we belonged there.  Nobody said anything to us, and the participants were all happy to pose for photos.  I kept telling Alejandro, "You know, we're really not supposed to be here."  But we continued walking as if we had every right to be there.

Is that you, Uncle Fester?

There was a whole group of women wearing dresses made of balloons.

I assume that they were going to accompany this float made of balloons.

I am sure that these two couples were not the only gay guys taking advantage of this occasion to dress up in outrageous costumes.

We found an exit from the barricaded area.

We left satisfied that we had taken more and better photos than if we had stuck around for the actual procession that evening.

"Catrinas" (and "Catrines") of the City Unite!

 Last Sunday another major Day of the Dead event was held... "La Mega-Procesión de las Catrinas".  Thousands of participants dressed as "catrinas" (and the male counterpart "catrines") paraded from the Independence Monument, down the Paseo de la Reforma, through the Historic Center to the main plaza, the Zócalo.  They all have their faces painted to appear as skeletons and are elaborately costumed.

Two years ago, Alejandro and I went to the Paseo de la Reforma in the afternoon and took pictures of the "catrinas" and "catrines" who were assembling for the procession.  We decided that we got much better photos than if we had stayed for the procession later in the evening.  We decided to do the same thing this year, and we got a ton of pictures of people who were going to be in the parade and others who were simply dressed for the occasion.

Along the Paseo de la Reforma there were scores of make-up artists who set up their stands to paint the faces of participants and spectators.

These women are dressed as the classic "catrina", elegantly attired with a big feathered hat.

The idea of the "catrina" began with a drawing done by printmaker José Guadalupe Posada in the early 20th century.  It pictured a skeleton wearing a wide-brimmed plumed hat.  It satirized the upper-class women of Mexico who imitated the latest fashions from Paris.  But rich or poor, we are all going to end up the same.

This fellow in his top hat is the classic "catrín".

The word "catrín" or "catrina" means a fashionably dressed person.

The participants have gone beyond the dictionary meaning of the word and are dressed in a wide variety of costumes.  Here are some of the "catrinas" and "catrines" assembled along the Paseo de la Reforma.

Even some of the street vendors had painted their faces for the occasion.

The lanes of the Paseo de la Reforma that were going to be used for the procession had already been blocked off with barricades.  Decorated vehicles and large skeleton figures were moving into place.

But we weren't done yet!