city at night

city at night

Saturday, April 11, 2020

A Tradition Adapts

Since 1843 Iztapalapa, the largest and poorest of Mexico City's "alcaldías" or boroughs, has presented a Passion Play in gratitude for the end of a cholera epidemic.  It has grown into the world's largest reenactment of the Passion, with 5000 participants and 150 speaking roles.   The performances span the entirety of Holy Week, from the Palm Sunday entry of Jesus to the resurrection on Easter Sunday morning, and take place in various locations throughout Iztapalapa. 

I would not even venture to estimate how many thousands of spectators come to see the events.  Several years ago Alejandro and I went on a Thursday afternoon. The crowds were enormous, and we were not even there for one of the principle reenactments.  

The young man who plays the role of Jesus is chosen a year ahead of time.  He must be a resident of Iztapalapa, must be in good physical condition (he has to carry a 165 pound cross through the streets of the district), must have no tattoos, and must be of good moral character.  

The high point of the week is on Good Friday when the judgement and crucifixion are reenacted.  Jesus carries the cross some 10 miles, climbing the small mountain known as the "Cerro de la Estrella".  The peak was the site of important  Aztec religious ceremonies, and now it doubles as Golgotha.  Following Jesus are hundreds of young penitents know as "Nazarenos", who are dressed in purple robes and are carrying smaller crosses. 

This year the pandemic has changed everything, including the Iztapalapa Passion Play.  The event is still being held but behind the closed gate of a church atrium.  No spectators are allowed, and yesterday's Good Friday reenactment was televised nationally.  (I am not sure, but from this photo it would appear that the participants are distancing themselves from each other.)

(image taken from the web)
       

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