In a country filled with history, Toledo (pronounced Toh-LAY-doh) is one of Spain's most historic cities. It is located about an hour to the south of Madrid on the banks of the Tagus River (Río Tajo). The site of the city was chosen for its superb defensive position, on a hill surrounded on three sides by a loop of the river.
Toledo dates back to the 5th century B.C. When the Romans conquered Spain, they named the town "Toletum". Because of its location in the geographic center of Spain, its importance grew throughout the Roman era. After the fall of the empire, the Visigoths swept into Spain, and made Toledo their capital. In 711 Spain was invaded by the Moors from North Africa, and Toledo became an important cultural center, a melting pot in which Moslems, Jews and Christians lived together. In 1085 the city was reconquered by the Christian kingdom of Castile. The Castilian monarchs and court frequently resided in Toledo, so the city was an unofficial capital of Castile. The cathedral was the seat of the Church of Spain. The great Moorish library had survived the reconquest, and a school of translators was established here. Moslem and Jewish scholars translated the library's texts into Castilian and Latin. Ancient works of literature, philosophy, science and mathematics, which had been lost to much of Europe during the Dark Ages, made their way back into European culture via Spain. However, as the Christian faith gained dominance in Spain, religious tolerance fell apart. Eventually the Jews and Moslems were forced to convert or leave the country. King Carlos I of Spain (Emperor Charles V of the Holy Roman Empire) made Toledo his Imperial Capital in the 1500's. But the city's prospects for the future were dashed in 1561 when King Felipe II moved the capital to the small town of Madrid. Toledo receded into the background, but it was a blessing in disguise. The city remained frozen in time; its architectural treasures survived the centuries. Today, the entire city is an historic monument.
These pictures are from trips that I took in 1998, 2004 and 2008.
The walls and gates which protected the city still stand today.
The city is a labyrinth of narrow streets.
The Bridge of San Martín, built in the 14th century, is one of several bridges spanning the Tagus River.
The Castle of San Servando, on the other side of the river, was built in the 11th century after the Christian reconquest. It once housed a Benedictine and then a Knights Templar monastery.
The Alcázar fortress, built in the 1500s on the highest spot in Toledo, was the scene of a bloody battle in 1936 during the Spanish Civil War. Today it is a military museum.
The city is dominated by its Cathedral. Built between 1226 and 1493, it is considered one of the greatest Gothic cathedrals of Spain.
The Tránsito Synagogue is a reminder of the once flourishing Jewish community in Toledo. It was constructed in 1356 with the permission of King Pedro I of Castile. After the expulsion of the Jews, it served as a church and then a military barracks. Today it is the Sephardic Museum, which documents the Jewish history of Spain.
Queen Isabella and King Ferdinand ordered the construction of the Church and Monastery of San Juan de los Reyes in 1477. By building it in the heart of the old Jewish Quarter, they were obviously making a statement about the supremacy of the Church... Fifteen years later they would order the expulsion of the Jews.
The building is an example of Isabelline Gothic, a highly ornamented style of architecture popular in Spain during Isabella's reign.
For centuries Toledo steel was famous for its high quality, and the swords manufactured here were considered the finest in the world. The Moors brought with them the art of damascene. Steel is etched with intricate designs. Gold filaments are then laid into the design. When placed into an oven, the steel turns black, but the gold remains beautifully brilliant. All over the city you will find souvenir shops selling all sorts of items of damascene... jewelry, plates, ornamental objects... and, yes, even swords.
I would be remiss if I did not mention one of Toledo's most famous residents... the great artist El Greco. Although he was born in Greece (his real name was Domenikos Theotokopoulos), the painter spent most of his life in Toledo, and many of his greatest works are found in the churches and museums of Toledo. In an earlier post I mentioned his masterpiece, "The Burial of the Count of Orgaz". It is in the Church of Santo Tomé. Another one of his famous paintings, "The Disrobing of Christ", is to be found in the sacristy of the Cathedral.
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