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Tuesday, August 20, 2024

The Mexican Cowboy

Last week I checked yet another one of Mexico City's approximately 150 museums off my list.  I visited a small museum devoted to the "charro", the Mexican horseman who worked on the cattle ranches, and "charrería", the equestrian sport which is the Mexican equivalent of the rodeo in the western U.S.

The museum is located in the former Convent of Monserrat on a busy street at the edge of the "Centro Histórico".  The colonial building is now the headquarters of the Mexican Federation of "Charreria".  In the convent's chapel there is a display of the organization's collection of objects related to the history of the "charro".


I had passed by the building many times, but it always appeared to be closed.  I read some reviews on Google Maps that indicated that the museum was indeed open, so I tried again.  This time I noticed that just inside the locked grillwork gate there was a small sign saying to ring the doorbell.  I did so, and I was buzzed in.

The gentleman in charge of the museum was very kind.  He explained a number of items of special interest in the room at the entrance.


This bronze statue shows the Virgen of Guadalupe appearing to a kneeling "charro".



These items were presented to the Federation by Spain.
They include a replica of the sword of Isabel la Católica (Queen Isabella) and a plate in gold damascene.


This is a replica of a sombrero which the Federation presented to Pope John Paul II on one of his visits to Mexico.



This looks like a saddle, but it is actually a piñata that won second place in the piñata contest at the Museum of Popular Arts.  The creator came to the Charro Museum to study the saddles in their collection, and then donated his winning piñata to the museum.  It looks like leather, but it is all papier mâché and cardboard.

The gentleman then led me into the main hall of the museum (the former chapel of the convent) to look around at my leisure.


 
The horse was brought to the New World by the Spanish.  When they conquered Mexico, they prohibited the native population from riding.  However, because the Spanish landowners needed ranch hands, the rules were loosened, and Indians and mestizos were allowed to ride on horseback.  They were required to wear special leather attire.  This was the beginning of the charro tradition and the charro outfit.




The wealthy ranchers soon adopted the charro outfit for themselves, but their suits were elaborately embroidered and decorated with silver.



A beautifully embroidered sombrero



A tooled leather saddle with a silver pommel with the Mexico's emblem of the eagle and the serpent.






Maximillian, who was installed as Emperor when the French invaded Mexico, was an avid horseman.  To ingratiate himself with the Mexicans, he adopted a charro outfit in black.




A collection of silver spurs



Tooled leather holsters



A pistol that belonged to Pancho Villa




Charro and charra outfits
Women equestrians also participate in "charrería".



While it is certainly not one of Mexico City's premier museums, it was an interesting place reflecting another aspect of Mexican culture.





5 comments:

  1. Believe it or not, SMA is "horse" country and many charreadas take place here. There is a big ring as you exit Los Frailes where I live nearby. I have been to several and the horsemanship is amazing.

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    1. Yes, I believe it. The last time we drove to San Miguel we saw quite a few people on horseback along the road.
      I have never been to a charreada, although there are a number of rings in CDMX, including one not far from where Alejandro's family lives. It's on my list of things to do and see.

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  2. That saddle piñata is awesome!!

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  3. Replies
    1. Yes, I would have never suspected that it was a piñata if the gentleman had not told me.

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