The historic heart of Coyoacán is centered around the Church of San Juan Bautista and two plazas adjacent it.
A large "catrina" stood outside the church.
The beautiful church is always worth a visit. It was built in the late 1500s by the Franciscan order.
An "ofrenda" had been set up inside the church. The statue is of St. Francis of Assisi.
In a tent on one of the plazas there was a display of "ofrendas" from different states of Mexico.
The "ofrenda" from Campeche on the Yucatan Peninsula was loaded with the food to be shared with the visiting spirits. Included was the "mucbipollo", the traditional dish baked in a banana leaf which I have mentioned a couple times here.
Coahuila honored the Mexican presidents who were born in that state.
The state of Durango also honored its famous native sons and daughters, including the film actress Dolores del Río and revolutionary Pancho Villa.
Guanajuato paid tribute to its famous son, the painter Diego Rivera (even though his leftist politics were definitely at odds with the conservatism of that state).
Many of the streets in the center of Coyoacán were closed to traffic. Vendors set up their stands selling food and handicrafts… or they just spread out their merchandise on the pavement.
Roasted corn and "esquites", corn kernels sautéed in butter with spices.
Alejandro had once told me about the vendor of "tamales" next to the church, so I ordered a "tamal chiapaneco", a specialty of the state of Chiapas.
The "tamal" is filled with what might seem an unusual combination of ingredients... chicken, "mole", almonds, prunes, olives, raisins, and bell pepper... but it is truly delicious.
The day was overcast and chilly, but the atmosphere was lively and festive without being oppressively crowded. It was a pleasant alternative to the colossal crowds along the parade route.