Protests, Soccer, Victory, and Rain

The eyes of the world were on Mexico City yesterday as the first game of the World Cup was scheduled to be played at the Azteca Stadium while thousands of protesters threatened to disrupt the games.  There were at least nine major protest marches scheduled including the militant CNTE teachers' union, transport workers, and the families of missing persons.  I can sympathize with some of the groups, such as the families of the disappeared, but not so much with others... particularly the teachers' union.  They have blocked the streets of the Historic Center with their tent encampments and vandalized decorations for the games.

I wanted to go to the Global Village that was set up at the entrance to Chapultepec Park.  Alejandro said that I shouldn't.  With demonstrations going on throughout the city, he said I should stay in the apartment.  Yesterday morning, I checked out where the marches were going to be held.  There were mostly in the southern part of the city and converging on the stadium.  I also checked to see if any Metrobus routes were going to be disrupted.  Service on Line 7 which runs along Paseo la Reforma was not running part of the way.  Obviously there were going to be protests along part of that boulevard.  That is one of the Metrobus routes that I would have normally taken to get to Chapultepec.  So, instead, I devised a different route.  I took the subway to the other side of the park, and walked some distance to reach the Global Village.  I encountered no problems. When I reached the "village" it was crowded with visitors, and the mood was festive.  In spite of the "iffy" weather forecast, it was a lovely sunny day.  (I will report on the Global Village in an upcoming post.)

When I reached the other end of the village by Paseo de la Reforma, I asked a policeman if the Metrobus was running normally yet, and he said "no".  So I headed back, retracing my steps. I was halfway through the "village", when I heard enormous cheers.  The opening game between Mexico and South Africa had started just a few minutes earlier, and Mexico had already scored an early goal.  There were two large TV screens where a crowd of fans were watching.

From what I read, the vast majority of the marchers were peaceful.  However, there were some violent clashes as protesters (I don't know from which contingent) tried to break through the barriers near the stadium, hurled objects at police, and were repelled with tear gas.  Other than the fact that the Metrobus was not running normally, I would have never known that anything was going on.  I could not help but think of the parallels to1968 when the Summer Olympics were held in Mexico City.  Massive student protests in the weeks prior to the games were met by violent repression from the government, and hundreds of students were killed.  Thank goodness there was not a repeat of that tragedy.

I walked to the subway station on the opposite side of the park.  The train was unusually uncrowded.  As I left the station nearest to my apartment, I could hear cheering.  I asked a policeman who was looking at his cellphone, "Excuse me, did Mexico just get another goal?"  "Yes," he said.  "Great!"

The skies were now cloudy, and I should have been prudent and returned to the apartment before the rain started.  However, I stopped at a nearby café to watch the remainder of the game.  The televisions there were, of course, tuned to the game, and the place was filled with fans, most (as was I) wearing Mexico jerseys and some in silly "sombreros".  There were no more goals scored, but the crowd was cheering and groaning with every play of the game.  The final score was 2 - 0, and at the end the crowd erupted into cheers, applause and chants of "México!"

Shortly after I left the café I felt a few sprinkles, and then the rain intensified.  I had several blocks to walk in the downpour.  I had an umbrella with me, but with gusts of wind it was not always effective.  I was soaked by the time I finally reached the apartment.

The day seemed to encapsulate the contradictory nature of Mexico.  There are deep problems and even violence (although I never saw any or ever felt unsafe).  There is also a deep love by the Mexican people for their country, and a passion for soccer.  Anger and joy.  Even the weather, from beautiful sunshine to heavy rain, seemed to represent the contrasts of this nation.