The Day for Tamales

There is more to the observance of the feast day of La Candelaria in Mexico than taking your doll of the baby Jesus (el Niño Dios) to church.  It is also the day to eat tamales.  You may remember that on January 6th, the Day of the Kings, the bread known as the "rosca de los reyes" (Ring of the Kings) is served.  It contains a little figure of the baby Jesus.  Whoever gets that figure in the slice of "rosca" is supposed to make tamales on February 2nd for everyone.  (Fortunately, Alejandro's family does not follow that rule, or else I would have spent the day making tamales!)  However, whether you make them yourself or go out and buy them from a street vendor, tamales are de rigueur for La Candelaria.

Whenever Alejandro drives me from the family house to the apartment, we pass through the "alcaldía" or borough of Venustiano Carranza.  Earlier in the week I saw posters everywhere advertising "La Feria del Tamal y el Atole"... the Fair of Tamales and Atole.

As I always mention when writing about tamales, the singular is not tamale, but "tamal".  "Atole" is a beverage made from corn that is traditionally served with tamales.

The fair was going to be held for one day only, February 2, on the esplanade in front of the government headquarters of Venustiano Carranza. I looked on Google Maps, and I found that I could get there via subway and Metrobus.  So, around eleven o'clock this morning I set out from the apartment to Venustiano Carranza.

The "alcaldía" of Venustiano Carranza

"Alcaldía" translates as town hall.  Ever since Mexico City was given a status similar to statehood, the boroughs are treated like towns within the larger city.

In front of the "alcaldía" there was an enormous tent set up where there were vendors selling tamales, "atole" and other foods.  There was a crowd of people there, and I was probably the only "gringo".

  

These ladies were members of an indigenous group from the mountains of the "Huasteca" region of the state of Hidalgo.

There were long lines for some of the vendors, and even at noon, some vendors had sold out of certain varieties of tamales.

On the stage local politicians were speaking.  All of them, of course, praising to high heaven the accomplishments of the ruling party.

Next to the stage was an elaborately dressed "Niño Dios".

Some of the vendors had their own figures of the baby Jesus.

Of course, I bought some tamales to eat there.  The lines were long for the more unusual tamales, so I simply had the three basic varieties of savory tamales... "mole", "verde" (green salsa) and "rajas" (strips of peppers).  They were all excellent.  As for "atole", I have never really cared for it.  It's like drinking flavored corn mush.  However, the one flavor of "atole" that I do like is guava.  I ordered a cup of that, and it was good.  One woman got into a conversation with me and said I should really try the pumpkin "atole".

After the political speeches were done, the musical entertainment began.  The "alcaldía" must have shelled out some big bucks for entertainment, because a very well-known group called "Sonora Dinamita" took the stage.  They play "cumbia" music, a dance form that originated in Colombia but which is popular in Mexico as well.

  

Unfortunately, as is so often the case in Mexico, the volume was turned up too high... so high that it hurt my ears.  My belly was full of tamales, so I decided to head back to the apartment.  And I never did find the vendor who was selling pumpkin "atole".