zocalo

zocalo

Thursday, April 21, 2022

Another Handicraft Market

When I made my first trips to Mexico decades ago, my favorite place to buy handicrafts was the San Juan Handicraft Market, a short walk south of the main tourist area of the Historic Center.  I had not been there for quite a while, and, when I finally returned a few years ago, I was sorely disappointed.  The market was a shadow of its former self with most of the stalls closed.  The larger Ciudadela Market, located a few blocks away, became my preferred place to shop for handicrafts, and the government sponsored FONART shops were my place to buy high quality items.

I read that the San Juan Market had been recently renovated, so last week I decided to pay it another visit to see if it had improved.


The building, which was originally built in 1955, had been spruced up and looks much more inviting.

The market has several levels.  However, you don't have to climb stairs, because the stalls are arranged along ramps which gradually head upward.


A giant version of one of the traditional Mexican dolls greets you at the entrance.


There were still quite a few empty stalls (one vendor said that it was because it was Holy Week), however there was more here than my previous visit.  Sadly, there were not many customers in the market; sometimes I felt as if I were the only one there.




This artisan was making hand-crafted guitars.

As in any handicraft market, there is a fair amount of tourist junk, but there were also some real treasures here.  I found a small, hand-carved, wooden jaguar head to add to the collection that I have hanging on my bedroom wall.  (They are rather difficult to find.)  On an my last trip, I wrote that my cousin in England collects miniature lead soldiers.  One of the vendors here had several sets of little soldiers.  I bought a set of the French soldiers who invaded Mexico in the 1860s, and another of Mexican sailors.  I have also mentioned that I always buy dolls for the little daughters of a friend of mine.  I found a vendor who has a very nice selection of dolls in regional costumes.  Unfortunately he did not accept credit cards, and I was not carrying enough cash.  So I guess I am going to have to make a return trip to the San Juan Market.

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