Neighborhoods

Mexico City, like most Mexican cities, is divided in neighborhoods called "colonias".  In my previous post I mentioned that I am staying in Colonia Escandón, and that on previous visits I had stayed in Colonia Condesa.  I am always fascinated with the names of streets in Mexico City because each "colonia" seems to have a theme for the naming of streets.  In Condesa (and the neighboring Colonia Roma) most of the streets are named after Mexican states and cities.  In the Zona Rosa they are named after European cities, in the affluent Colonia Polanco they are named after famous scientists and writers.  Here in Escandón it would seem that the person who named the streets was imbued with the ideals of the Revolution.  Here we have streets like Patriotismo, Progreso, Unión, and Prosperidad.

My favorite "colonia" is Condesa.  Before the area was built up, there was a horse racing track there.  The oval of the track became one of the neighborhood's streets, Avenida México, and within the oval is a large park, Parque México.  By the 1930's development of the neighborhood was well underway.  Many of the homes and apartment buildings were built in the art deco style popular at that time.  Others were built in what they refer to as "California style"... a neo-colonial style with tiled roofs and grillwork on the windows.  Condesa was always a very prosperous neighborhood, and more recently became the "in" spot for trendy restaurants, shops and bars.  With its parks and tree-lined boulevards, Condesa is one of the greenest "colonias" in the city.  While strolling the streets, at times you feel that you are in Europe.  But then you will see a little "taquería" tucked between more upscale establishments... or a street sweeper using the typical broom of twigs tied to a pole... or an overflowing trash bin in the park (garbage collection in a city of 20 million is a continuing challenge)... or a juggler performing for cars stopped at a red light.

Bordering Condesa on the north and east is Colonia Roma.  Roma was developed earlier than Condesa.  During the dictatorship of Porfirio Díaz in the late 1800's this was the new suburb where the well-to-do were building lovely homes inspired by French architecture.  Roma fell into decline for many years, but it is regaining its luster again.  In fact it is now overtaking Condesa as the place for fine dining in the city.

And then there is Escandón, the neighborhood where I am currently staying.  It is a little "colonia" just to the south of Condesa hemmed in on each side by major thoroughfares.  It is solidly middle class and very safe.  I have felt perfectly comfortable strolling its streets after dark.  But it is no Condesa.  The architecture is nondescript and there is nothing elegant about its commercial establishments.  However, it does have its charms, and is more representative of the real Mexico City then some of the swankier "colonias" nearby.

Yesterday I did some exploring of my neighborhood.  Here are a few pictures that I took...

 

                                             The apartment building where I am staying.

 

The parish church of the "colonia" is just half a block from my apartment.  I hear the church bells every morning.

The main commercial street in Escandón

The sidewalks are crowded with little stands selling all sorts of merchandise and food.  This stand sells "birria" (a stew made from goat meat) and "cabeza" (meat from the head of the cow).

 The public market building

A fruit and vegetable stall in the market

A flower stall in the market

The market ceiling is crammed with piñatas for sale.

Behind the market building is a line of stalls selling books.

I may be frequenting this establishment... a very nice pastry shop... on a regular basis!