The metro is the cheapest and fastest way to get around the city. The fare is 3 pesos... about 25 U.S. cents. But it is not for someone who is claustrophobic, and it can jangle the nerves of anyone. The annual ridership is more than one and a half BILLION passengers! When I left in the morning, around 10:30, it was not too crowded. I was even able to take a seat for part of the way! When I returned to the apartment around 2:00 P.M., the afternoon rush had already begun, and we were jammed into the cars like sardines. Obviously riding on the metro is one of those times when the wallet goes into my front pants pocket. To add to the chaos there is a steady stream of vendors getting on and off, and hawking their wares in sing-song chants. Today there were people selling DVDs and CDs (probably pirated), Jolly Ranger candies, Listerine breath strips, and caramel apples.
When I got off the metro at the Hidalgo station, I was just across the street from the Alameda Park. The Alameda was laid out in the late 1500's as a public park on what was then the western outskirts of the city. The fountains and statues adorning the park were added in the 1800's. On my last several visits to Mexico City, the Alameda was closed and barricaded off while a renovation of the park was done. The Alameda is once again open, and it looks good. The walkways have been been repaved, and there has been extensive planting of perennials in the flower beds. Not much was blooming at this time of year, but I would imagine that in the summer the park will be in bloom. The old fountains have been spruced up... some of them turned into "dancing fountains".
A monument to Benito Juárez, Mexico's most beloved president, in the Alameda
The Alameda faces busy Avenida Juárez
Just beyond the Alameda is the Palacio de Bellas Artes (Palace of Fine Arts).
It is the most important cultural center in the city. Symphony concerts, operas, and the famous Ballet Folklórico are presented in the main theater. The interior also contains mural paintings by the country's most famous painters.
Beyond the Palace of Fine Arts, Avenida Juárez changes its name and becomes the pedestrianized Avenida Madero. At this point you are entering "el Centro Histórico", the colonial heart of the city. The first colonial building that you see along Avenida Madero is "la Casa de los Azulejos"... the House of Tiles. This 18th century palace is notable for the blue and white tiles which cover the entire facade. In the early 20th century the house was purchased by two Americans, the Sanborn brothers, who opened a restaurant/drugstore/soda fountain here. This was the beginning of the Sanborns restaurant chain which has branches throughout the city and across the country. (Today Sanborns is owned by the Mexican billionaire Carlos Slim.)
Across the street from the House of Tiles is the colonial church of San Francisco. In the atrium of the church the "ofrenda" for the Day of the Dead was still on display.
In contrast, next door is a 20th century skyscraper, "la Torre Latinoamericana"... the Latin American Tower. For many years it was the tallest building in Mexico and all of Latin America.
This view of the tower is taken from the Alameda Park.
In front of the tower is "La Nacional" building. It was built in the early 1900's as the headquarters of an insurance company, and was the city's first "skyscraper". Today it houses a Sears department store.
I decided to go up to the observation deck on the 42nd floor of the Latin American Tower. Here are some pictures of the view from up there. (The city's air pollution is quite noticeable.)
In the upper right hand corner you can make out through the haze the World Trade Center which I mentioned in an earlier post.
After visiting the Latin American Tower, I went down the street to the Sears store in "La Nacional" building. I had read that the department store had a terrace snack shop with tremendous views. It was definitely worth a stop for the view of the Palace of Fine Arts across the street!
I headed back to the metro station to return to my apartment. But first I decided to go to the nearby colonial church of San Hipólito. I had often admired its bell towers, but I had never been inside the church.
The church was open. Although it is named for San Hipólito, it is the center of the veneration of San Judás de Tadeo (St. Jude in English), the patron saint of lost causes.
The intensity of the veneration by the worshipers was comparable to the pilgrims at the Basilica of Guadalupe. There was something a bit odd about the church that I could not put my finger on. Later Alejandro told me that the veneration of San Judás is associated with "brujería" (witchcraft) and the "Santa Muerte" (St. Death) cult, and that San Júdas is a favorite saint of criminals.
Oh my!
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