chile en nogada

chile en nogada

Wednesday, September 16, 2026

Independence Day Lights

Today is Mexican Independence Day, the day which commemorates the beginning of Mexico's fight for its freedom from Spain.  The struggle began on September 16th, 1810, however it was not until 1821 that Mexico's independence was finally acheived.

The big celebration occurs on the eve of Independence when a quarter of a million people crowd into the Zócalo, Mexico City's main plaza, to watch the President appear on the balcony of the National Palace and ring the bell which Father Miguel Hidalgo rang to gather his parishioners and exhort them to rise against the colonial rule of Spain.

Alejandro and I definitely did NOT join the crowds on Tuesday evening.  However, the Saturday before we went to the Zócalo to see the holiday lights.  At this time of year, you are always at risk of being caught in a thunderstorm in the evening.  Although in some parts of the metropolitan area there were downpours and flooding and even hail storms, fortunately for us, in the center of the city we had nothing more than an occasional light sprinkle.

As we walked toward the Zócalo, on nearly every street corner we saw vendors selling Mexican flags and Independence Day clothing and decorations.



This organ grinder was decked out for the holiday.

(photo take by Alejandro)


The Zócalo was lively with other people who had also come to see the holiday lights.

(photo taken by Alejandro)


Traditional Mexican tunes were being played off and on from the loudspeakers.
I suspect that they were testing the system for the big night.








The national coat of arms... the eagle and the serpent



The coat of arms also hangs over 20 de Noviembre Avenue, the main street flowing into the Zócalo.



The theme of the lighting this year was heroines of the War for Independence.  Frankly, I find the government's pro-feminist posturing a cruel joke given the continuing disgrace of feminicides and violence against women.

The most famous of the women of the independence movement was Josefa Ortiz, also known as "La Corregidora".  She was the wife of the Spanish administrator or "corregidor" in the city of Querétaro.  She secretly held meetings of pro-independence conspirators in her home, and she warned them when the Spanish were on to their plans.




Leona Vicario served as a messenger, relaying information to the insurgents, and generously donated for personal fortune to the movement.  She was one of the first female journalists in Mexico and worked with pro-independence publications.



Gertrudis Bocanegra supported the independence movement in the state of Michoacán as a messenger and spy.  She joined a group of rebels planning to take the town of Pátzcuaro from the Spanish.  She was captured by the Spanish and was condemned to death before a firing squad.



I had never heard of the fourth woman honored in lights on the Zócalo... María Ignacia Rodríguez.  Alejandro had never heard of her either.  I did a bit of research on her later, and her exact role in the independence movement is unclear.  She came from a very wealthy family, and was noted for her great beauty. She did use her considerable fortune to help finance the insurgents.   She was married three times, and was accused of having numerous love affairs with prominent men.  Some of the accusations were probably false, but others were possibly true.  She was very close to Agustín de Iturbide, the Spanish officer who switched sides and led the rebels to eventual victory.  Some have gone so far to suggest that it was her influence that led Iturbide to join the independence movement.








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