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Friday, September 5, 2014

Sevilla (part one)

(These photos are from trips that I took in 1998 and 2004.)

The stereotypical image that many have of Spain... white-washed houses, flower-filled patios, and gypsies dancing the flamenco... actually comes from Spain's southernmost region of Andalucía.

Andalucía's principal city, Sevilla (known to us as Seville) has long had a romantic, sensuous allure.  It was the home of opera's femme fatale, Carmen, and literature's quintessential Spanish lover, Don Juan.  Although today Sevilla has a metropolitan population of 1.5 million, and is a modern commercial and industrial center, its historic center retains the city's seductive charm, and still enchants visitors.  There is an old Spanish proverb... "Quien no ha visto Sevilla, no ha visto maravilla."  (He who has not seen Seville, has not seen a marvel.)

Located along the banks of the Guadalquivir, the country's longest navigable river, Sevilla became one of the largest and most splendid cities of Moorish Spain.  Even after the Christian reconquest, the city remained important.  During the era of Spain's great empire, all of the gold and silver from the New World, entered through the port of Seville.

The city is dominated by the 295 foot high tower known as the Giralda.  The Giralda is to Sevilla, what Big Ben is to London or the Eiffel Tower is to Paris.  The tower was originally the minaret of the city's great mosque.  When the Christians tore down the mosque to build a cathedral, the inhabitants pleaded that their beloved tower be spared.  So the Giralda became the belltower of the cathedral.



The lower portion of the tower is an excellent example of Moorish architecture.  The uppermost part was added by the Christians and is topped by the ornate weathervane (giralda) which gives the tower its name.

The cathedral which was built in the 15th century on the site of the mosque is huge.  It is the largest Gothic church in the world. It is said that the builders proclaimed, "Let us create such a building that future generations will take us for lunatics!"




The main altarpiece is the largest in the world.  Made of gilded and polychromed wood, it contains more than 1000 Biblical figures.

 
 
Visitors to the Cathedral may climb to the top of the Giralda.  It is a relatively easy climb since, instead of steps, there is a ramp leading to the top.  The ramp enabled Moorish sentries to ride up on horseback.  The top offers vistas of all of Sevilla.
 

 

 
 
Not far from the cathedral is the Alcázar (fortress) of Sevilla.  This was the site of the palace of the Moorish rulers of the city.  When the Christian kings took control of Sevilla they renovated and rebuilt the structure for themselves.  Much of the Alcázar was built in the 1300s during the reign of the Castilian monarch Pedro I.  Pedro loved Sevilla and frequently resided here.  The Alcázar is still a royal residence, and the current royal family stays here when they visit the city. 
 
 

 
Entrance to the Alcázar
 
Much of the palace is built in what is known as the "mudejar" style of architecture.  The "mudejares" were the Moslems who continued living in Spain after the Christian reconquest.  "Mudejar" artisans were employed in the construction of the palace, so the architecture has a very Moorish appearance.  In fact, except for Christian symbols, such as the scallop shell (the symbol of St. James), one might mistake Sevilla's Alcázar for a Moorish palace such as the Alhambra in Granada.
 





 
Behind the palace are extensive gardens, a beautiful area to explore.
 



 
 
The Cathedral and the Alcázar (which are both UNESCO World Heritage Sites) are only two of the many attractions.  In my next post I will show you more of Sevilla.
 


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