A Trip to Jamaica

The Jamaica Market is my favorite market in Mexico City.  It is worth a visit any time of year, but it is especially fascinating during the weeks leading up to Day of the Dead.  I always try to make a trip there this time of year.  So, although I have written about it many times here on the blog, here is another look at the Jamaica Market.

It's not located in the greatest of neighborhoods, but Line 9 of the subway takes you right to the entrance to the market.

The enormous building sells all the things you would expect in any public market in Mexico... fruits, vegetables, meats, clothing, household goods, etc., etc.

But the market's fame and uniqueness stems from the fact that there are more than 1,000 stalls selling flowers and plants.  It is a flower-lover's paradise.

Of course, this time of year, there are thousands upon thousands of marigolds... or "cempasuchiles", as they are known in Mexico.

The "terciopelo" flower ("velvet" in Spanish) is a variety of celosia and, because of its blood red color, is also associated with the Day of the Dead.

The Jamaica Market is probably the best place in the city to buy decorations for the Day of the Dead.

In addition to skulls, there are loads of "catrinas" (and their male counterpart "catrines"), elegantly attired skeletons.  They range from small figurines to larger-than-life figures.

  

In addition to the traditional white sugar skulls, this year more elaborately and colorfully decorated candy skulls seemed to be quite popular.

Many stalls sell "papel picado", intricately cut banners of colored tissue paper which represent the fragility of life.

My intention when I went to the market was to simply enjoy the colorful and festive atmosphere.  However, I ended up buying a piece of pottery... a skull candlestick holder... and carrying it home on the subway.  It is now next to the door to the apartment.

A Mall Full of Skeletons

Metropoli Patriotismo, a shopping mall within walking distance of the apartment, is decorated for the Day of the Dead with a number of skeletons.  The mall had them last year, and looking back at my old blog entries, I posted pictures of a number of them.  Here are some that were not on the blog last year...

I think that all of the skeletons are supposed to represent famous people and celebrities.  Some of them I recognized, others I did not.

The unibrow gives it away.  This is supposed to be Frida Kahlo.

From the attire of this skeleton and the tiny mustache, it is obviously Cantinflas, the famous comedian and movie star who has been compared to Charlie Chaplin.  Photographs often show him in this costume, comparable to Charlie Chaplin's "little tramp" outfit.

(image taken from the internet)

With these clothes as well as the freckled face, there can be no doubt that this is "El Chavo del Ocho", the protagonist of a popular comedy series on Mexican television.

(image taken from the internet)

For "fútbol" fans, the Argentian uniform and the number 10 make it obvious that this is soccer superstar Lionel Messi.

I have no idea who these skeletons are supposed to represent.  Does anyone know?

Off to the Market

Last Sunday morning, our houseguests Al and Stew left for the bus terminal to return to their home in San Miguel de Allende.  We enjoyed having them here, and we hope that they had a good time.

After they left, Alejandro and I decided to take a walk to the market in the nearby neighborhood of Colonia del Valle.  At this time of year, there are always stalls set up outside on the sidewalk selling things for Day of the Dead and Halloween.

A lot of the merchandise is cheap junk made in China, but I always find some interesting items "hecho en México¨.

Packages of sugar skulls

In the days before photography was common, instead of placing photos of departed love ones on the Day of the Dead altar, people would write out the names of those who had passed away and attach them to the skulls.

  

At the end of the row, there was a stall that sells "catrina", the elegantly dressed skeletons that have become a symbol of the Day of the Dead.  The larger ones are made with styrofoam skulls and arms made of pipe cleaners.  Last year, I bought one of the "catrinas".  This year I spotted the male counterpart, a "catrín", and purchased it.

The two of them are now hand in hand in my living room, greeting people as they enter the apartment.

Something Different for Lunch

Our house guest Al said that he had a craving for a pastrami sandwich, and he wondered if there were any good delicatessens here.  Well, Mexico City is definitely a cosmopolitan city, especially when it comes to restaurants.  In the Condesa neighborhood there is a delicatessen called Mendl that gets good reviews.  So, after Saturday's parade, we went there for lunch.  The restaurant is very attractive with a lush, garden setting that is not exactly what one what expect from a deli.

Stew and Al enjoying their matzoh ball soup and pastrami sandwich.

Alejandro and I both ordered the matzoh ball soup, and although we are not experts on Jewish cuisine, we both thought that it was very tasty.

Both of us also ordered Reuben sandwiches which were also very good.

We probably wouldn't go to Condesa just to eat there, but if we are in that neighborhood, and looking for a place to eat, it is definitely a very good option for a change of pace.

A Wild Ride

After watching the "alebrije" parade with our out-of-town guests, Al and Stew, we wanted to go out for lunch.  However, it would be a while before the streets would be opened and we could take a taxi or Uber.  However, there were a couple of "ciclotaxis" parked near us.  The drivers were obviously hoping to pick up a fare.

The "bicitaxis" or "ciclotaxis" are sort of like rickshaws.  The carriage, which has room for two passengers, is attached to a bicycle or motorcycle.   You will find them primarily in the "Centro Histórico".  The ones that were waiting near us were powered by electric motorcycles.

Alejandro asked one of the drivers how much it would cost to go to the restaurant in Condesa where we wanted to eat... about 2 1/2 miles away.  He said 300 pesos (16 US dollars), which is quite expensive for such a short ride.  Since there were four of us, we hired both of the "ciclotaxis".  Alejandro and Al got into one; Stew and I got into the other.

Al took this picture of Stew and me in the other carriage while stopped at a red light.

We took off down Paseo de la Reforma which was still closed to traffic.  We almost caught up with the parade which was still headed down the boulevard.

Alejandro took this short video from their "ciclotaxi".

We turned onto Insurgentes Avenue, and came to the barricades that closed the street off to traffic.  I didn't think we would be able to do it, but we managed to slip through a narrow gap in the barricades.  Then we were in the heavy traffic, and we darted in between cars.  It was a wild ride.  At times we felt like we were on an amusement park ride, and at times I felt a little scared.

I had read that the drivers of these "ciclotaxis" are not very honest, and we experienced it for ourselves when we arrived at the restaurant.  They had told Alejandro that the fare was 300 pesos per "ciclotaxi", but upon arrival they wanted 300 per person.  Highway robbery!  But Alejandro didn't feel like arguing, and we paid the exorbitant amount.

I will never use a "ciclotaxi" again, but I have to admit that it was quite an experience.   

  

More "Alebrijes"!

Here are more photos and videos from last Saturday's "alebrije" parade...