Sent to the Tower

Today's sightseeing destination was one of the most historic spots in a city chock full of history... the Tower of London..

The Tower of London was begun during the reign of William the Conqueror more than 900 years ago.  The oldest portion of the Tower complex, the White Tower, was William's imposing fortress and palace.  It dominated medieval London, and asserted the power of the Norman conqueror over the defeated Saxons.  It is called the White Tower because the walls used to be whitewashed.  Today it houses a museum of armor and weapons.

 
Later kings expanded the fortifications, building two rings of concentric walls.  The southern outer wall at that time ran along the bank of the Thames River.

  
Kings Henry III and Edward I added luxurious royal apartments in the St. Thomas Tower.  Visitors can see a recreation of Edward's bedchamber.

Within the fortress walls, visitors can see the resident ravens.  Legend has it that if the ravens ever leave the Tower grounds, the White Tower will crumble and great misfortune will befall the kingdom.  Six ravens are kept here... and their wings are clipped so that they cannot fly away.

 

The Bloody Tower received its name because it was supposedly here that 12 year old King Edward V and his younger brother (The Princes of the Tower) were murdered by their uncle, the Duke of Gloucester.  The uncle then took the throne as Richard III.

During the Tudor dynasty, the Tower was used less as a royal residence, and more as a prison.  It was, however, a prison for inmates of high status, and their accommodations were generally quite comfortable.  The famous people who were imprisoned here included Henry VIII's wives Anne Boleyn and Catherine Howard, Sir Thomas More, and Sir Walter Raleigh.  Prisoners were brought to the Tower by boat and entered through the watergate known as the Traitor's Gate.

 

The Yeoman Warders, popularly known as the Beefeaters, originally served as royal bodyguards.  However, when the Tower became primarily a prison, it was the Yeoman Warders who looked after the inmates.  (Today, the Beefeaters serve as tour guides for the visitors to the Tower.  I've heard that they are excellent guides, however, I did not wish to be herded around with 100 other people.)

Very few people were executed within the Tower grounds.  Most executions occurred outside the castle on Tower Hill.  Among those beheaded within the Tower walls were Anne Boleyn, Catherine Howard and Lady Jane Grey.  This modern sculpture commemorates the spot where they were probably executed.  (In the center of the sculpture is a glass pillow... representing the pillow on which the severed heads fell.)

Those who were beheaded within the castle walls were buried in the small chapel of St. Peter ad Vincula.  The chapel is supposedly haunted by the ghost of Ann Boleyn, who carries her head under her arm.

 
Since medieval times, the Tower has safeguarded the Crown Jewels of England.  In the 1800's the Waterloo Barracks were constructed within the Tower grounds.  That is where they are housed today.  The line to view the jewels was so long that I seriously considered skipping it.  But I figured that I would be chastised by friends for not seeing the jewels, so I got in line.  Fortunately the queue moved fairly quickly.

 

Of course, you are not allowed to photograph the jewels.  When you reach the star attraction, the coronation crowns, scepters and orbs, there is a moving walkway.  However, you can circle back and view the jewels as many times as you want.  I passed by twice.  They are certainly impressive, glittering with diamonds and other gems.

(image taken from the web)

The Tower of London, in my opinion, has been over commercialized. Like so many attractions in London, the admission price is hefty. (22 pounds or 37 dollars). I also thought that the numerous gift shops within the castle grounds detract from the site's historical significance.  Furthermore, the Tower is mobbed with people... not only tourists but scores of student groups.  (It seems as if every school in London is taking end-of-the-year fields trips this week.)  In spite of it all, my trip to the Tower was very worthwhile.