Puebla

Cinco de Mayo, as I discussed yesterday, commemorates the Mexican victory over the French at the Battle of Puebla in 1862.  So let's take a look at the historic city of Puebla.

Unlike many Mexican cities which were built on the site of pre-Hispanic communities, Puebla was planned and built by the Spanish in 1531.  It was situated along the main trade route between the port of Veracruz and Mexico City, and during colonial times it was the second largest city in Mexico.  Today it is the fourth largest city in the country with a population of over 1,500,000 people.  It is the capital of the state of Puebla, and is located about two hours to the east of Mexico City.  It is an important industrial city and boasts the world's largest Volkswagen factory.  In spite of the city's industry and modern commercial areas, its historic center has been preserved.  In 1987 UNESCO declared the "centro histórico" a World Heritage Site.

As in most Mexican cities, the "centro histórico" follows the plan used by the Spanish in laying out their towns in the New World.  At the heart of the city is the central plaza, which in Mexico is usually referred to as the "Zócalo".  The "Zócalo" of Puebla is a lovely green area with fountains and trees..

Around the plaza, the Spanish would always construct a church and the government buildings.  On one side of the "Zócalo" of Puebla is the Government Palace which is the headquarters of the state government.  You can see the bell (under the clock) which is a replica of what you might call Mexico's "Liberty Bell".  On September 16, 1810, the parish priest Miguel Hidalgo, rang the church bell in his town of Dolores, and called on his parishioners to fight for their freedom from Spanish rule.  This was the beginning of Mexico's War for Independence.  Every state's Government Palace (as far as I know) has a replica of this bell, and on the eve of Independence Day, the state governors will ring the bell and proclaim, "Viva México".   (The original bell now is at the National Palace in Mexico City, and is rung each year by the President.)

On the opposite side of the "Zócalo" is Puebla's Cathedral, one of the largest in the country.  The cathedral was begun in 1575 and took over 200 years to complete.  The bell towers are the tallest in Mexico.  The dark limestone used in its construction gives the building a rather severe appearance.

                    The "centro histórico" is filled with beautiful, colonial architecture.

In the 1500s potters were brought from the town of Talavera de la Reina, Spain, to teach the locals their techniques.  Puebla soon became the center for the production of the glazed tiles that adorn colonial buildings throughout Mexico.  These tiles, called "azulejos" decorate many of the old structures in Puebla.

The potters also produced beautiful pieces of ceramics known as Talavera ware. It is still a specialty of Puebla.

In a city filled with churches, the most amazing is the Church of Santo Domingo.  One of the chapels within the church is the incredible Chapel of the Rosary.  It was built between 1650 and 1690, and is a stunning jewel-box of gold gilt, statuary and baroque ornamentation.