Shivering in the Tropics

Mexico City's location is in the tropics, but, as I have said before, its climate is moderated by its elevation.  Well, the last couple days the weather has "moderated" down to being downright cold.  This morning, for the second day in a row, the temperature has been 32 degrees Fahrenheit when I got up in the morning.

Yesterday the house never warmed up, and when I sat in the living room I was wrapped up in a blanket.  My feet never were cold all day. The high temperature was in the low sixties Fahrenheit (the afternoons usually rise to the seventies).  I went up to the roof to enjoy the sun.  Although the sun's warmth felt good on my face, there was a chilly breeze at my back.

Alejandro left very early yesterday morning to go to the hospital.  He won't be back until this evening.  His sister Sandra returned home later in the morning, and immediately went to bed.  She had not been able to get much sleep at the hospital the night before.  

For Sunday dinner I fixed penne pasta with sauce.  The sauce was from a can, but I doctored it up, and it wasn't too bad.  I had also bought some meatballs to serve with the pasta.  Meatballs are one of little Ezra's favorites.  They weren't like the ones his grandmother makes in a tomato broth, but he seemed to like them.  He asked for three with his pasta and he ate them all.  There was one meatball left over, and when I asked him if I should save it for him for his evening supper, he enthusiastically said, "Sí".

For some time a neighbor, who prepares home cooked meals as a business, has been bringing food to the house once a week.  Sandra has now arranged to have meals delivered three times a week, so today I don't have to cook.

The Hospital From Hell

Private hospitals in the large cities of Mexico provide care comparable to facilities in the United States at a fraction of the cost.  In fact, medical tourism is a big business down here; visitors from the U.S. can receive first rate health care at an affordable price.  However, listening to the horror stories from Alejandro and his sister, I am learning that it is a far different story if you rely on the public hospitals of the Mexican Social Security system.  

At first I thought it odd that Alejandro and his sister were taking turns going to the hospital and spending twenty four hours a day with their mother.  I just chalked it up to the importance of family in Mexican culture.  Now I realize it is because of the atrocious level of care in the public hospitals.

Within a few days of her admittance, while she was still unconscious, Alejandro's mother had developed a bedsore because the staff had not removed a urine soaked diaper.  You know darn well that in the U.S. such negligence would result in a big lawsuit.   Not only that, but Alejandro and his sister have been the ones moving her regularly so that she doesn't more sores.  Other than taking her vital signs, the nurses do virtually nothing.

The hospital has been very cold.  Temperatures here in Mexico City have been going down to freezing at night, and buildings do not have central heating.  The patients have nothing but a thin blanket.  Family members are not allowed to bring any blankets or warm clothing in for the patient. 

It is a nightmare, and I hope that Alejandro's mom is soon released.

Hace frío

"Hace frío"... or for those who don't speak Spanish, "It's cold outside!"

The temperature here in Mexico City is 32 degrees Fahrenheit, 0 degrees Celsius!  The high today is only going to make it up to 63 degrees Fahrenheit.

That's better than the temperature back home in Ohio, but when you don't have central heating 32 degrees really feels cold! 

A Quick Trip to the Condo

The Mexico City World Trade Center... just a stone's throw from the condo I rent

This morning I was supposed to go to the condo that I am renting.  The cleaning lady was going to be there, and, hopefully we could resolve with the doorman the problem of getting me a key for the front door of the building.  (The lock was changed since I last stayed there.)

I was going to go by Metrobus.  There is a bus line just a couple blocks from Alejandro's house, and from that line I could transfer to the Insurgentes bus that would take me all the way to the World Trade Center.  However, Alejandro's sister was giving him a break today from being at the hospital with their mom, and he said that he could drive me there.

When we arrived at the building, the cleaning lady, Guillermina, was at the front door talking with the doorman.  Nothing was resolved as far as the key issue.  Extra keys have not been made, and those that have been made (Guillermina has one) don't work very well.  One can enter the building easily enough, but trying unlock the door to leave requires a lot of jiggling of the key.   Even the doorman has a hard time with the lock.  We went upstairs to the apartment, where I grabbed the garage door opener.  Until I get a key, I can enter the building through the garage.  

Alejandro, good-hearted soul that he is, asked Guillermina if she had eaten breakfast yet.  When she said "no", he invited her to join us.  (We had not yet eaten either.)  So the three of us walked over to the VIPS Restaurant a few blocks away, and had a nice breakfast together.  After saying goodbye to Guillermina, we got in the car and headed back to Alejandro's family's home.

Even though I now have a way to get into the condo, for the time being I will continue to stay with Alejandro's family.  I want to help out as much as I can while Alejandro's mother is in the hospital, so I have taken on the job of cooking for the family.  That consists of (depending on who is taking a turn at the hospital at the time) Alejandro, his father, his sister and his nephew.  

On the way home we stopped at Walmart because there were some groceries that I was unable to find at "Comercial Mexicana" yesterday.  I found what I needed, and soon after we got home I started cooking.  I prepared a sort of stew that I often make.  I usually make it with chicken, but a couple days ago Alejandro had bought some "longaniza" (a type of sausage) at the market.  That needed to be used up, so I fried it, and then put it in a kettle with carrots, peas, onions, peppers, and garbanzo beans and simmered it in tomato puree.  I served it over rice.  It was just Alejandro and his dad today, and they both seemed to like their dinner.  So I'm two for two in successfully putting food on the table.

Shopping and Cooking

Last night Alejandro got a decent night's sleep at home.  This time his sister Sandra had taken the night shift of staying at the hospital with their mother.  He was at home until noon when he left to relieve his sister.  I can tell that the stress is getting to him.  Alejandro never cusses, but I heard the "ch" word come out of his mouth while he was trying to gather together some things to take to the hospital.

First thing this morning we walked his nephew Ezra to school.  Then I fixed us a breakfast of "huevos a la mexicana" (Mexican style eggs).  Then Alejandro needed to buy a bag of dog food and some other things at Sam's Club, and I went along with him.  On the way home we stopped at a locksmith, and Alejandro had copies of the house keys made for me.  Now I can leave the house on my own!

I want to take a bit of the stress off of Alejandro and Sandra by doing some of the cooking for the family.  After Alejandro left for the hospital, I went out to do some grocery shopping.  I walked to a nearby "Comercial Mexicana".

  

"Precios bajos" - Low Prices

"Comercial Mexicana", a combination supermarket and department store, is one of Mexico's major retailers. I don't think that I have ever been in one before, and I was not impressed.  The interior is like a warehouse, the selection is not very good, and I was unable to find a lot of products that I get at more upscale grocery stores.

I was able to find what I needed for this afternoon's dinner, though.  I was making something that Ezra likes... "chilaquiles".  However, he doesn't like spicy hot food, so I didn't use any "chile" peppers.   I sautéed onions, bell pepper, and garlic... and then added diced tomatoes, tomato puree, shredded chicken, cheese and a bag of "totopos" (unsalted tortilla chips).  It looks like a mess, but it is quite tasty. 

While I was cooking, Sandra came home, and then she and her father went to get Ezra from school.  By the time they returned, dinner was ready to be served.  All three of them said that the "chilaquiles" were very good.  I hope that they weren't just being polite, but that this "gringo" cook had prepared a nice Mexican dinner for them. 
  

I'm Not Here as a Tourist

Morning view from the rooftop

Alejandro's mother continues to show improvement.  Yesterday she ate for the first time since entering the hospital, and she has been moved out of intensive care.  However she has made the decision not to receive dialysis, so it is anyone's guess how long she will be able to continue with her drastically reduced kidney function.

It has been a stressful time for Alejandro and his sister Sandra.  They have been taking time off of work (Sandra returned to work today), and have been taking turns being at the hospital.  Although they were only allowed limited visits with their mom, they needed to be there at all times in case an important decision needed to be made.  Sandra has been spending the days at the hospital, and Alejandro has been there each night.  He has had very little sleep since last Friday.

I do not know how long I will be at the family's house.  Before I can go to the condo that I am renting, I need to get a key, since the lock on the front door to the building has been changed since I was last there.  I called the cleaning lady yesterday.  She has a key, and she is going to be at the apartment to clean on Saturday morning.  I told her that I would meet her there, and hopefully the doorman will have a key for me.  Even if the key situation is settled on Saturday, I will surely be staying at the Alejandro's family's house longer.  The condo is more comfortable and in a much nicer neighborhood.  But I need to be here, not just to lend moral support, but to try to help out where I can.

The weather here has been typical of Mexico City in January.  The nights are chilly with the lows usually down to the 40s Fahrenheit.  In spite of the winter temperatures homes here have no central heating.  I am sleeping in Alejandro's room which is downstairs... and the downstairs, which does not get much sun during the day, is always cold.  I have been sleeping under a couple of blankets.  So much for the stereotype of tropical Mexico.  Climate here is all about altitude, and Mexico City has an elevation of over 7,000 feet above sea level.  During the day it is sunny, and the temperature usually goes up to the 70s.  Alejandro's father often spends time on the "azotea" (rooftop terrace) warming up in the sunshine.

Yesterday morning I woke up before 7:00.  Sandra took her seven-year-old son Ezra to school and I went along.  We walked the several blocks to the school just as the sun was coming up.  Ezra is a very good student, and enjoys school.  He always wants to be there in the morning as soon as they open the door.

Sandra and I returned to the house; we had breakfast, and soon afterward Sandra left to take her turn at the hospital.  I washed dishes and did a little cleaning in the kitchen.  I then had some time to set up the computer on the kitchen table and write emails and work on the blog.  

In late morning Alejandro returned from the hospital after another sleepless night.  He should have gone to bed, but there were things to be done.  We went to the "tianguis" (outdoor market) which is held each Wednesday a few blocks away to buy fruits and vegetables.  The warm sun felt wonderful.

I then helped him prepare the "comida", the afternoon dinner which is the main meal of the day.  He roasted poblano peppers over the flame of the stove, and put chicken breasts in a pot to cook.  The peppers were put in a bag to "sweat", and after they had cooled off, we rubbed the blistered skins off of the poblanos.  I shredded the chicken breasts, while Alejandro cut the peppers into strips or "rajas".  The "rajas" were then mixed with the chicken.

After we had prepared the main dish for dinner, Alejandro had to run another errand.  He had to take some documents that Sandra needed at the hospital.  I went along with him, and traffic was the typical Mexico City chaos.

By the time we had returned to the house, Alejandro's dad had brought Ezra home from school.  The four of us had dinner.  The chicken with "rajas" was served with sour cream, and some leftover rice and frijoles were heated up to go along with it.

After dinner, I washed the dishes.  Alejandro got a bit of much needed sleep.  Ezra was upstairs doing his homework.  When I was done with the dishes, I went up and helped Ezra with his English homework.  His lesson dealt with food vocabulary and the verb "to like". "Pam likes salad, Sam doesn't like ham," etc.   

In early evening Alejandro left for the hospital, and Sandra had returned home by nine.  She fixed us a light "cena" or supper.  By then it was ten, and I went to bed under my blankets.  Such is my non-touristy life here.

I'm in Mexico City, and I'm Not Sure What to Think

Unlike my previous trips, my blog posts for this trip are not going to be travelogues with pretty pictures... at least for the time being.  As you know if you read my previous post, the mother of my friend Alejandro is gravely ill and has been in the hospital since last Friday.

For the first few days I am staying at Alejandro's family's home instead of the condo that I rent.  The key to the entrance door of the condo building has been changed, and I am going to have to make arrangements to get the new key.  Until then I am staying with Alejandro's family.

Yesterday when I arrived in Mexico City I took a taxi from the airport.  I am sure the driver was surprised that a "gringo" wanted to go to the completely non-touristy, working-class neighborhood where the family lives.  I noticed that he waited on the street until Alejandro had opened the front door and let me in.  The driver perhaps was wondering if this crazy "gringo" really knew where he was going.

Alejandro was getting ready to leave for the hospital.  He and his sister have been taking turns staying there.  He told me that his sister had called from the hospital and told him that their mother had regained consciousness.  She was talking coherently, asked to drink some water, and wanted to get out of bed.  Alejandro, however, remained pessimistic in spite of her improvement.  He speculated as to whether she would be released from the hospital to spend her final days at home.

After Alejandro left to spend the night at the hospital, his sister returned home.  She was ecstatic about her mom's improvement, and talked as if she would be all right.  I certainly did not want to be a killjoy and ask if the doctor had changed the prognosis.

I was expecting to attend a funeral shortly after my arrival here, but now I don't know what the situation is.  Perhaps when Alejandro returns later this morning, he will have more information.  In any event, I am glad that she has regained consciousness and is able to communicate with her family.